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Bordeaux chardonnay?

>> Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Can we look forward to soon seeing a Bordeaux chardonnay? Perhaps. The producer organisations for AC Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur has requested permission from the INAO to plant experimental vineyards with e.g. chardonnay, chenin blanc, syrah and marselan, grape varieties that today are not allowed. The suggestion is that they would in the future be allowed up to 10% in the blend.


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Wine of the Month: Faustino I Grand Reserva, Rioja

>> Monday, January 19, 2009

Criteria: an interesting wine (not too cheap) and one that you can enjoy with dinner or friends (not too expensive). And very good! Selected by Jack, our reporter in Stockholm.

Faustino I Grand Reserva, Rioja

A red wine that I’ve always had a bit of a faiblesse for is Faustino’s archetypical Faustino I, a Grand Reserva in a traditional barrel-aged style. At the moment you can get the 1996 at the Swedish monopoly (Systembolaget) for 149 kronor (~15 euro) and it has just the perfect maturity to go with a well made country chicken or other white meat. The delicious vanilla and dill (!) nose is perfectly balance with the maturity of the wine and a touch of acidity, with some fruit and berries at the back end. A perfect Rioja to enjoy a dark January night, in the classic, old style that is at risk of extinction from the onslaught of more modern alcohol-filled power wines.


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BKWine Pic: Restaurant Bissoh, Beaune

It is not quite what you expect – that a Japanese restaurant has what is no doubt one of the best (if not the best) wine list in Beaune. But so it is. You will find virtually all of the top Burgundy producers but also other districts are well represented. When we were last there, on the table next to us a young winemaking couple was tasting one of their (illustrious) neighbours’ wines. If you like saké they also have many of the top producers. Food, having trawled through the extensive wine list, is excellent. Both the sushi and the meat, traditionally prepared on the cooking table in the middle of the restaurant. A dinner will add up to 35-50 euro (or more, of course, depending of your choice from the wine list…).

Click here for address and more recommendations.


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BKWine Pick: Pinxo, Paris 1

Pinxo is run by Alain Dutornier from the Michelin-starred restaurant Carré des Feuillant, just a few blocks away. The decoration is very Spartan with a Japanese touch. The first thing that strikes you with the food is the presentation: very modern, very slick and it too more than a hint oriental. Choose e.g. the mi-cuit (very lightly cooked) tuna, grilled gambas with spicy rice and coconut milk and finish with the coffee accompanied by a heavenly delicious chocolate preparation. You will not be disappointed. Very professional and attentive service. Good selection of wines starting at 30€. Count on 40-60€ for a full meal.

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BKWine Pick: Bacalhôa Vinhos de Portugal, Alentejo

This is one of the biggest wine producers in Portugal, with head quarters on the Setúbal peninsula south of Lisbon. On the edge of the small town Azeitão they have a big winery. In addition to the wine production facility they have one of Portugal’s finest collection of azulejos (ceramic tiles) dating back to the 16th century. Bacalhôa is well known for its excellent Moscatel de Setúbal, a sweet wine made from the very aromatic muscat grape. It is concentrated with hints of orange marmalade, dried fruit and nuts with an excellent balance between the sweetness and the acidity. But they also make very good reds, for example Meia Pipa and the cabernet sauvignon-based Quinta da Bacalhôa. Their white Loridos made from alvarinho grapes is very nice with citrus character and good minerality.

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BKWine Pick: Domaine de la Bouysse, Corbières, Languedoc

Martine Pagès and Christophe Molinier are both trained oenologists. They run this 50 ha family property in the Corbières in Languedoc. They have 10 ha in the sub-appellation Boutenac with its stony soil. They took over the responsibility for the property in 1996 and immediately started a restructuring of the estate to improve the quality of the wines. They planted syrah and mourvèdre (adding to the 50-80 year old carignan and grenache they had) and started reducing the yields. They have developed a range of Vin de Pays wines (viognier, chardonnay, merlot) and AOC Corbières rose and red. The wines are very well made and very reasonably priced. Mazerac Corbières 2005 is concentrated with aromas of vanilla, cocoa and dried figs (8 euro). The Viognier 2006 is excellent, flowery, full-bodied with aromas of apricot (5 euro), and Roc Long Corbières 2006 has the typical garrigue expression (herbs and spices) with ripe fruit but retaining a fresh acidity (6 euro).

Click here for address and more recommendations.


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BKWine Brief nr 66, January 2009

>> Friday, January 16, 2009

BKWine bigger than Wine Spectator? Well, it depends how you count. We were surprised recently when we saw that BKWine TV had more viewers than WineSpectatorVideo on YouTube: 4796 against 4290. Fun! We actually have more than 70 video clips today, the most recent being a mini-series with a biodynamic grower in the Rhône valley, and we have some 250 video views per day (our site, bkwine.com, has around a thousand visitors per day). Read more on this below.

What kind of year will 2009 be? It’s started in a bit of a gloomy mood, with the credit crunch and North Pole weather in Paris. It can be a good idea to cheer up with a nice bottle of wine. And our ambition is to help you find them (without having to break your credit limit).

We, Britt, Per and Jack, our correspondent reporter in Stockholm, sat down (virtually) and tried to pin down what we think will be some wine trends the coming year. Here’s our list:

France will slowly edge towards a more market orientated wine production – in view of coming winery bankruptcies, classification debacles, export market share losses etc some winemakers will catch on and make an effort to think about what the market and the customers want. (“we make our wine and then the courtier deals with the contact with the negociants and we deliver the wine. We never deal with the market ourselves”, today a common thing to hear at top Bordeaux chateau, less so in the future)

The rule of oak will fall, fruit will make inroads – producers will focus more on emphasising the fruit in the wine and will avoid flavouring them too much with oak (barrels, planks, or chips). Both for red and white, and in particular chardonnay.

Residual sugar levels will go up – primarily in “simple” wines where producers will keep more sugar in the finished wine to make it easier to drink (more populist if you wish).

Luxury wines face difficult times – top Bordeaux, luxury champagne cuvees, the rarest burgundies and Californians (et al.) will not sell their wines so easily. Will prices plummet?

Environmental concerns – firstly, organic wines will win market shares, and no doubt also biodynamic, since the difference between the two is not well understood neither by consumers, nor by journalists and other wine people. Secondly, wine producers will focus on reducing the environmental impact of wine growing and wine making.

More local grape varieties – big interest in other grape varieties than “the international” ones. If you’re not yet familiar with alvarinho, vermentino, alforcheiro, xinomavro, antao vaz, petit manseng, negrette, fer servadou etc you will soon be.

What about low-alcohol wines? – We’re doubtful. It is difficult (impossible) to make wine with less than a certain level of alcohol (“the only way to make a decent Bordeaux with less than 12% is to mix the wine with water” as one producer said). You do actually need to have ripe grapes. But there is the possibility that there will be a slight shift in demand – less Priorat, less Amarone, less body-building Californians (no, this is not a political opinion) and Aussies – and more northern wines perhaps. A boom for German wines? Hardly. (And, by the way, unfortunately.)

If you have any comments, do send us an email or post in the blog.

Britt & Per

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !


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The Damocles Sword? Will there be any Bordeaux Primeurs 2008?

>> Wednesday, January 07, 2009

Not sure about the English equivalent, but in Swedish you say that one should not swear in church. Perhaps the alternative is, one does not use screw cap in Portugal? That’s similar to what Jean-François Moueix (chateau Pétrus, négociant Duclot) has done, according to a blog post on The New Bordeaux written by the usually well informed Jane Anson. Moueix recently said in an interview with the French magazine Nouvel Observateur that (brace yourself) maybe there wont’ be a primeur campaign, or only a half one, for the 2008s… “The chateaux believe they are victims of the financial crisis, but they have orchestrated the problem (of overly high pricing)... If négociant houses can’t buy or obtain lines of credit for their allocations, the wine will remain at the chateaux. And if there are not enough takers of allocations, there won’t be any en primeur sales.” It will be interesting to see what happens next spring. At the same time we cant really feel much pity for the chateaux who worry (they’ve sold well, at very high prices, in recent times; and perhaps it’s time for an overhaul of the whole somewhat antiquated way of going to market in Bordeaux?), nor for the buyers who complain that Bordeaux wine is too expensive. If the price is not right there are plenty of other just as excellent wines out there looking for buyers. Perhaps time to decamp and discover alternatives if the price is not right?


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The Big Wine Lake drying out

>> Tuesday, January 06, 2009

According to the latest statistics from the OIV (Organisation Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin) the surplus of wine produced in the world seems to be diminishing. World consumption has grown with 2 million litres. It’s not that we drink more. It’s rather that there are more people drinking: “new” wine consuming countries are increasing the number of consumers, China, Thailand, Russia, Singapore, Korea… On the other side, production has gone down a bit since the peak in 2004 and 2005. Many “old” producer countries make less wine today whereas there is an increase in many “new” wine countries, e.g. in the European New World of wine (Eastern and Central Europe). So we are approaching equilibrium between production and consumption. On a global level, of course…


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South African grapes

>> Monday, January 05, 2009

The most grown grape varieties in south Africa (source: WOSA):
1. Chenin blanc, 19 %
2. Cabernet sauvignon, 13 %
3. Colombard, 12 %
4. Shiraz, 10 %
5. Chardonnay, 9%
6. Sauvignon blanc, 8 %
7. Merlot, 7 %
8. Pinotage, 6 %
9. Cinsault, 2 %
10. Ruby cabernet, 2 %


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South African wine exports boom

>> Friday, January 02, 2009

The ten biggest export markets for wins from South Africa (source: WOSA, million litres over Jan to Jul 2008, change relative to 2007):

1. UK, 61 Ml, +26 %
2. Germany, 37 Ml, +9 %
3. Netherlands, 18 Ml, 0 %
4. Sweden, 16 Ml, 0 %
5. Africa, 15 Ml, +177%
6. Eastern Europe, 12 Ml, +269 %
7. Australasia, 10 Ml, +462%
8. Denmark, 10 Ml, +21 %
9. USA, 9 Ml, +55 %
10. Canada, 9 Ml, +35 %

Total exports reached 225 million litres over the seven months with a growth of +31%. It appears that the Swedes are quaffing by far more SA wines than anyone else. Wonder why?


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One less Côte

The appellation Côtes des Ventoux changes name and becomes AOC Ventoux, a wine region in the western part of Provence. There are some 150 winemakers making primarily red wine (75%), almost a quarter rosé and a little white. There are many “côte” appellations in France – Côte de Bourg, Côte Chalonnaise etc. Perhaps more would benefit from simplifying their names? Read more : vitisphere.com


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Natural cork is the most environmentally friendly closure

A study done by the consultancy firm PriceWaterhouseCoopers has shown that natural cork closures on bottles are the most environmentally friendly closure: synthetic (plastic) corks were deemed nine times more damaging to the environment and screw caps twenty two times more. The study was commissioned by Amorim, the world’s largest cork manufacturer, but is said to have adhered to strict scientific principles, including peer review and involvement of representatives from manufacturers of alternative closures. Read more: decanter.com


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The perfect ”champagne glass”?

>> Tuesday, December 30, 2008

http://www.bkwine.com/images/claudia-schiffer-champagne-breast.jpgKarl Lagerfeld has designed a champagne glass for Dom Perignon (that no longer is the prestige cuvee of Moët & Chandon but a brand all of its own). The glass takes its shape from the breast of the supermodel Claudia Schiffer, or at least it has been inspired by it. We have unfortunately not tried drinking from the glass, nor have we verified its conformance to the original, since we have not seen the mould. Oh, the price tag? A mere $3,150. Including a bottle of Dom Perignon 1995. We wonder if the glass too comes in two-pack? Read more: www.hauteliving.com


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Port and sherry give Australia million dollar grief

The EU and Australia recently signed a new trade agreement. One part of that agreement says that Australia will no longer use the denominations Port, Sherry and Marsala for its fortified wines. Many Australian wines have been called such things, since these kind of naming restrictions simply are governed by international agreements, and no such limitation had previously been agreed. (Do you remember the Danish feta cheese?) The wine producers in Australia say that this will cost them millions of dollars since they will have to change their naming and establish new brand identities. The agreement also covers e.g. Moselle, Burgundy, Sauterne, and Chablis. In return the Europeans will recognize the Australian wine regions as specific denominations (Coonawarra, South Australia etc) and will allow certain wine making techniques regularly used in Australia but not permitted in Europe to be used for Australian wines imported to Europe (e.g. use of oak chips and copper citrate). Read more: www.abc.net.au and www.theaustralian.news.com.au


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A wine poster for your wall?

Willi’s Wine Bar in Paris is an excellent spot to go for a glass of wine or a (not so simple) thing to eat. Each years Mark Williamson, the owner, asks an artist to make a poster for the wine bar – now going 25 years back. 23 of the 25 posters are still available if you would like to buy one to adorn your own wall at home (or someone else’s). This year the artist who made the drawing is Jean-Charles Catelbajac, who’s also a neighbour of the bar. You can find the posters here: http://www.williswinebar.com/ (for Europe), or here http://www.williswinebar.us/ (in the US).


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BKWine TV: [E] Montirius, #7 - a biodynamic wine grower, the story

>> Monday, December 29, 2008



http://www.bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine... --- Interview with Christine Saurel of Domaine Montirius vineyards.

Domaine Montirius is located in the southern Rhone valley, in Gigondas and in Vacqueyras. The winery is owned and run by Christine and Eric Saurel, a young couple who have moved the vineyards to biodynamic culture. It is 58 hectares of vineyard in appellation controllee Gigondas, Vacqueyras and Cotes du Rhone, and some Vin de Pays. Eric and Christine have a fascinating story to tell - moving from traditional farming to organic to biodynamic; choosing to leave a long time relationship with the cooperative and start out as an independent winegrower...

Christine tells the story of how Montirius came to work with first organic farming and then the biodynamic principles (based on Rudolf Steiner's theories). She explains some of the things it means: how you do it what kind of treatments you do, what difference it makes etc.

PART 7: HOW DOES A VINE FUNCTION?

Montirius cuts the vines very little during the growing season. They believe that if you do cut the vines (to make straight well tended rows) you give the wrong signals to the vines. The vines spend their energy on growing new shoots and new leaves. The vines may also use more water than what they otherwise would, which can be difficult in a place where water is scarce.

Christine also explains why they don't have weed or grass between the rows which you often see at biodynamic vineyards.

And then it is time to taste the wine and decide for yourself if all this makes good wine or not!

http://www.montirius.com/

By BKWine, http://www.bkwine.com

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Turbo charged red wine?

The Wine Doctor in Australia has launched what they claim is the world’s first wine with a boosted level of resveratrol. Like milk with extra vitamins? Resveratrol is a substance that wine contains naturally, especially red wine. The normal content is around 1-2 mg/l resveratrol. The super-charged Wine doctor wine has been boosted to contain 100 mg/l. All for the modest sum of AU$19.95 per bottle. Is it better? We don’t know. More info http://www.drnorrie.info/ (well, there should be but the site seems to be down)


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How to sell wine?

There are of course many ways, but sometimes you wonder over the imagination of the marketers. On prize winner contender is The Naked Winery (http://www.nakedwinery.com). Can there be any other motivation behind that name than just as a plain attention grabber? And what about some of their wines? Escort Pinot Gris (“a frivolous white perfect for any social occasion”?); Dominatrix Syrah (“feels like a stranglehold on your throat when you swallow”?); Penetration Cabernet (“not the most subtle wine”, no doubt made with plenty of skin contact); Missionary Cabernet (“ordinary, boring, and conventional”?). No doubt they bottle all their wines with screw cap. And with this we have given them all the attention that they were hoping for I imagine… Let us know about any other horrid examples in this category and we’ll publish them too.


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Good or bad to filter wine? – again

Our piece on filtering wine (is it good or bad? – in view of today’s trend of boasting “unfiltered” on the label) a while back sparked a comment from a reader. (Comments are always welcome!) Here’s what our reader had to say (that we publish anonymously): “Regarding the filtered vs. unfiltered debate, yes there have been in California many trials at individual wineries, but not much data in the public realm. When I was at [a winery in California], we did a number of trials with the exact same wine filtered and unfiltered, with tastings after bottling, 6 months, 1 year and 2 years aging in bottle. My conclusions were:

1) Tight filtration causes wine to be more dry and austere when young, but most of the effect wears off as the wine ages.

2) The level of filtration is as critical as filtration vs. non-filtration. In other words, the difference between a loose filtration (to remove sediment) vs. an extremely tight filtration (to remove malolactic bacteria) is as big or bigger than the difference between no filtration and a loose filtration.

3) Red wines are more impacted by filtration than white wines.

4) I would rather have a somewhat lesser wine due to filtration than a wine gone bad that could have been saved by filtration.

5) If you want to make unfiltered wine, you need excellent hygiene, attention to detail and laboratory analysis by the wine maker.
So, like most things in life, when people ask if filtration is “good” or “bad”, the answer is…it depends.”

Thank you for the comment!


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