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The Outsiders – a wine gang in the Languedoc

>> Friday, January 07, 2011

A new group of wine growers were recently established in the Languedoc-Roussillon. It is an exciting mix of interesting growers, from western Limoux to eastern Costières de Nîmes, And what do they have in common? Maybe you have guessed already – they are all outsiders, meaning they do not originally come from this area. Most of them are actually foreigners but a few come from Bordeaux (maybe as foreign as another country for the Languedoc people…). All of them see the potential of making good, and even great, wine in Languedoc-Roussillon. Some of them worked in the wine business before but for most of them it’s a change of career. Before they worked in teaching, taxation, finance, investment banking, TV production, sales and marketing…We are sure a lot of this knowledge will come in handy also as a wine producer!

So what does being an outsider mean? According to the members themselves, it means having an alternative perspective and maybe seeing things and doing things a little differently. We wish the group a lot of success.

The Outsiders:
Château Rives-Blanques, Limoux (Jan Panman from Holland och Caryl Panman from England)
Château d’Anglès, La Clape (the Fabre family from Bordeaux)
Mas Gabriel, Languedoc (Debora and Peter Core from UK)
Mas des Dames, Languedoc (Lidewij van Wilgen from Holland)
La Grange de Quatre Sous, Vin de Pays d’Oc (Hildegard Horat from Switzerland)
Domaine Jones, Roussillon (Katie Jones from UK)
Domaine Hegarty Chamans, Minervois (Sir John Hegarty and Philippa Crane)
Domaine de Calet, Costières de Nîmes (Anna-Lena – from Sweden – and Yvon Gentes)
Domaine Treloar, Roussillon (Jon and Rachel Hesford from UK)
Château de Combelle, Saint Chinian (Catherine Wallace from UK)
Domaine Cébène, Faugères (Brigitte Chevalier from Bordeaux)
O’Vineyards, Cabardès (Ryan O’Connell from USA)


In November The Outsiders invited to a tasting of their wines in London. We could not be there in person but our friend and wine writer Brett Jones was there and has kindly shared his impressions. You can read a full account of the tasting, Inside with the Outsiders of Languedoc on Brett’s blog The Wine Maestro brettthewinemaestro.wordpress.com. Here are Brett’s comments for the Brief:

“The Outsiders are an informal group of good wine producers, none of whom is a native of Languedoc-Roussillon – they are all ‘immigrants’. All keen people, they are from far and wide: UK, USA, Holland, New Zealand, Switzerland and even Bordeaux!

It was a sunny November morning when I arrived at the La Maison de Languedoc-Roussillon in Cavendish Square, in the heart of London, to be greeted by the twelve Outsiders who were behind their tables ready to show their wines. All of them from outside the region, all of them keen, enthusiastic and proud of what they have achieved and what they are doing.

As I tasted their wines and spoke to each of them, I appreciated each producer’s individuality as well as the quality. When I tried wine made from vielles vignes I thought of the graceful old age the vines are enjoying, producing a tiny amount annually compared to the huge yields required in their youth, for table wine...

The Outsiders show a care and attention as well as an inordinate pride in what they are doing and I enjoyed the tasting very much.”
PS: If you are going to Millesime Bio in Montpellier at the end of the month there is a wine tasting with the Outsiders on the Monday evening at Bistro Boris. Contact Louise Hurren for more info.
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A cork campaign with a distinct off taste

>> Thursday, January 06, 2011

The “natural” cork industry has made great strides this year to regain credibility with consumers. Consumer attitudes to natural cork and screw caps vary vastly from one country to another. For example, in Scandinavia (and also in the UK it seems) many people are convinced that the only intelligent, not to say perfect, bottle closure is screw cap. This is of course not quite true. In other countries consumers are convinced that natural cork is the only serious closure. Which is equally wrong.

In any case, cork producers have had a hard time and have spent quite a lot of money on campaigns to regain consumer confidence. But their latest campaign (launched in the US) gives a very sour taste in the mouth.

There are two videos. One makes it clear that if one (men) wants success with women then they should buy bottles with natural cork – it is a sure way to make them want to have sex with you. The other shows the dangers of bringing a screw cap bottle to the office party – it virtually guarantees a failed career. Yes, it is no doubt intended as light hearted humour. And yes, it is a completely failed attempt that only gives the impression that the cork industry is insensitive and silly.

See the videos here www.vinography.com. And for an alternative view on cork, screw (!) cap and sex: www.drvino.com

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Constellation sells wine business, loses top slot

>> Wednesday, January 05, 2011

Constellation is the world’s biggest wine producer, as mentioned elsewhere in the Brief. However, they are now set to lose the top spot to Fosters or E&J Gallo. Constellation is in the process of selling its British, Australian and South African wine business. The buyer is a Champ Private Equity. The price tag is said to be A$230 million, substantially less than the A$1.9 billion that Constellation paid for BRL Hardy, an Australian wine company, in 2003. The reason for the sale is apparently that they have difficulties getting a sufficient profitability in those parts of their wine activity. They will keep the American wine business. Read more www.decanter.com and www.jancisrobinson.com

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World's biggest wine producers

Once upon a time it was said that Gallo was the world's biggest wine producer and that they made as much wine as the whole of Bordeaux. This is no longer quite true (but not far from the truth, and see the following item!). Here are the world's biggest wine producers (2008):

1 Constellation (USA), 58 million cases with 9 litre, i.e. 5.2 million hectolitres
2 Foster (Australia), 37 M cases, 3.3 M hl
3 E&J Gallo (USA), 34 M cases, 3.1 M hl
4 Pernod-Ricard (France), 22 M cases, 2.2 M hl
5 Concha y Toro (Chile), 16 M cases, 1.4 M hl
6 Diageo (Great Britain), 12 M cases, 1.1 M hl
(Source: International Wine & Spirits Record / l'Expansion)

In comparison Bordeaux produces around 5 million hl (approximately the same as Constellation). One should perhaps point out that even if Pernod-Ricard is French almost none of the wine they produce is French (it is mainly New World wines). Just like Diageo does not make its wines in the home country. You will never see most of these names on the label of a bottle of wine. These big wine companies usually use a range of brand names / wine estate names on the wines. It does indeed more look like family run wine estates that way...

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Be careful when you buy wines en primeur – especially from 1855.com

Jim Budd is a wine journalist with a penchant for writing about wine fraud. He runs a site on hazy wine investment schemes called www.investdrinks.org (and a normal wine blog on http://jimsloire.blogspot.com). He has recently taken to write about 1855.com, a French-based online wine shop. 1855.com is well known in the French wine press for having frequent delivery problems and a lot of customer complaints (see e.g. La RVF).

Jim has uncovered that there are a lot of customers of 1855 that have not have their wines (in particular primeur wines) delivered. He is collecting and collating information about never-delivered purchases from 1855.com and has currently (with not much effort it seems) identified €100,000 worth of wines that have still not been delivered, some purchases going back several years.

Jim speculates that 1855.com sells wine “short”, i.e. sells the wines without actually having anything to sell and then tries to source the wines on the open market when delivery time comes. This is obviously a dangerous strategy if prises are on the rise, which is the case for many top Bordeaux primeur wines today… But the company denies that this is the case. Read more here:www.les5duvin.com and www.les5duvin.com and http://jimsloire.blogspot.com.

Contact Jim through his blogs if you have experiences with 1855 that you’d like to share or if you have un-delivered orders.

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New Fine Wine ezine out

>> Tuesday, January 04, 2011

The electronic wine magazine Fine Wine is out with a new issue. In it you can read about, for example, wines from the Rhône Valley (written by BKWine!), wines from Australia, and port wines. The magazine is published both in English and in Swedish. Download it for free here: www.finewine.nu

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New papers from the Wine Economists? Do we seek solace in alcohol or is it the other way around?

The Association of American Wine Economists has published two new intriguing papers. The first is about the development of economic thinking and viticulture. The second is on a more unexpected subject: it is a study on the correlation between monogamy and alcohol consumption. It turns out that in societies that move from polygamy to monogamy alcohol consumption apparently goes up. Is there a link between the two? The papers can be found here:

There’s also a post on the monogamy and drinks issue on Freakonomics: "Do We Drink Because We’re Monogamous, or Are We Monogamous Because We Drink?"

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BKWine as Nils Holgersson on WineToursimInFrance

>> Monday, January 03, 2011

WineToursimInFrance.com is a site dedicated to, yes, wine tourism in France. It seems mainly oriented to professionals and is read by many wine producers. We were interviewed recently by the editor, André Deyrieu, who published the article under the heading “The Nils Holgerssons of Wine Tourism”… (click on the link; use Google Translate if you don’t read French). The article even generated some debate. The director of tourism at Château Giscours, Marc Verpaalen, did not quite agree with what we said, but we think that he might not quite have understood our discourse. Sylvain Bouhélier, a wine producer in Burgundy, seemed on the other hand to see our arguments as a sign of that you do not necessarily have to have a lot of money to be successful in wine tourism.

What’s your opinion?

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BKWine Pick: La Banque, Epernay

La Banque is a new restaurant in Epernay in Champagne and as the name indicates, it is an old bank that has been transformed into a restaurant. The proportions are impressive; it is a huge restaurant with very high ceiling. But it still manages to have a certain cosy character. As you can imagine, the bar is also of an impressive length and here you can taste a number of champagnes by the glass. The choice is vast; you have the big houses and also small, less well known producers. The food is typical French brasserie food of good quality: duck breast (17.50 euro), entrecôte (23.50 euro), calf liver (19), veal cutlet (19.50), sweetbread (29) and more. Starters to recommend are for instance the truffle risotto (16) and the lobster ravioli (24). A 2-course menu is 17, 50 euro och a 3-course is 26.50. Weekends you can have a Menu Weekend starting from 38 euro. Open every day.

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BKWine Pick: Domaine Senat, Minervois

>> Thursday, December 30, 2010

Fifteen years ago Jean-Baptiste Senat moved from Paris to Minervois in the Languedoc. He started with just a few hectares, now he has 15 hectares and is one of the most interesting producers in the region. He makes drinkable wines with a lot of character, wines that are very pleasant to drink young, although some of them can keep for ten years and more. His vineyards are beautifully situated close to the Montagne Noir. Old grenache and carignan grow here in a rather poor soil and surrounded by wild herbs like rosemary and thyme. The vines are worked organically and the esprit bio continues in the cellar where the wines are made as naturally as possible.

A new cuvée is Arbalète des Coquelicots 2010. A very attractive wine with structure and a certain minerality and a very generous fruit, un vin gourmand, as they say in French. But still a serious wine, although extremely drinkable. The grapes are 70 % Carignan och the rest is Grenache och Mourvèdre. Jean-Baptiste is very fond of carignan. He says it is not so aromatic but gives the wine a nice freshness. His most well known wine is La Nine and the vintage 2009 is a pure and elegant wine with a nice taste of black berries. Le Bois de Merveilles 2009 is well structured with some tannin and spices, a complex wine with a very nice balance. One suggestion is to drink it with your favourite cheese.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Pick: Mas Zenitude, Terrasses du Larzac, Languedoc

Being Swedish ourselves we always find it interesting to meet Swedish winemakers. Like Erik Gabrielsson, whom we met in September at his domaine Mas Zenitude, in Languedoc. Erik is from southern Sweden and works as a lawyer in Malmö. He bought Mas Zenitude, a domaine of 5 hectares, situated outside the small village of Saint Jean de Fos in the Terrasses du Larzac area, four years ago. The old and beautiful mas is originally from the 12th century and has been transformed over the years.

Erik has a passion for terroir wines; wines with a personality. He thinks there should be a story behind each wine. He has chosen biodynamic viticulture because he thinks it is the best way to obtain this terroir taste in the wines. And also because it helps the vines to develop their own defence system against diseases. “It is relatively easy to be organic in this area”, he says; because we have the tramontane (a northern wind) more or less constantly and it keeps the vineyard dry.” He uses only low levels of copper and sulphur.

Eric recently launched his very first vintage, 2009, and the wines are very promising. The have a personal style, they are quite lively and with a very good fruit. The white Solstice 2009, with Clairette och Grenache blanc has a nice aromatic nose with a hint of peaches and it is round and full bodied with a certain freshness. Zizanie 2009 is an exciting wine made with only Clairette och with three whole days of skin contact. This was actually an experiment that turned out very well! The wine is full bodied and structured and I quite like the touch of petroleum on the nose. The red Equinox is a blend of Merlot and Carignan and you find all kinds of wild berries on the nose. It has a good tannin structure and is a very pleasant to drink with any kind of meat. Vent d’Anges (a play with words! – means wind of the angels but when you pronounce is it means also harvest) is made from very old Carignan and they give the wine complexity and a solid fruitiness, it is a powerful wine, yet elegant.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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13 things we remember from 2010 - New BKWine Brief out!

>> Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 89, December 2010


Click for the new
Wine Tour program!


Click to recommend
to a friend!



2010 is rapidly approaching its end. It is often the occasion to summarize what’s happened over the year, and in our case it is the wine year. What will we remember of 2010?

1. One of the first things we remember is the record breaking prices on the Bordeaux en primeur wines, in spite of a financial crisis elsewhere in the world. And the price roller coaster (so far only going upwards) has not stopped since for the most exclusive Bordeaux wines.

2. The vineyards had a lot of coulure (poor flowering and fruit setting) in the spring which was very evident on the vines in September. The harvest was small, very small in some places. 30% less than normal was not unusual.

3. EU chose a new symbol for organic products – through democratic voting on the internet! The design may be peculiar but it will be used on all organic products in the EU.

4. We also remember all the wines from Châteauneuf that we have tasted during 2010. Châteauneuf was “wine village of the year” in Sweden with several tastings and we had two fully-booked wine tours to the region.

5. We will not forget the earth quake in Chile and the remarkable recovery by the wine industry. Britt had the opportunity to travel in Chile shortly after the catastrophe and experienced a few of the after-shocks.

6. The Swedish debate on if wine sales should be allowed at wine producers’ or not (yes, there are a few) – bizarrely the only point of real debate around a proposal for a new alcohol law. No discussion about the monopoly itself, nor about how to make the alcohol policies more effective (alcohol consumption is on the rise, in spite of the supposedly effective monopoly).

7. South African wines were in focus during the football world cup – and they will be in focus in 2011 too in Sweden since Stellenbosch has been named Wine Village of the Year.

It’s also interesting to take a look at what trends we predicted at the beginning of the year. Were we right? Well, at least to some extent.

8. Environmental concerns, for example, continue to be on the agenda, and in 2010 even more so. 2010 is the year when the organic wine trend or fad has almost turned mainstream. Not a day goes by without a new article or book on organic wine farming, solar or wind power, CO2 emissions etc. Be it trend, fad or not, it must be a good way forward to think about the environment. What does it matter if it is done with due to a conviction or due to it being trendy? Biodynamics would not agree of course, if it is not done with heart and soul it is not enough. The future will show where this leads.

9. What is most environmentally friendly, the screw cap or the natural cork? 2010 was a year when the cork industry hit back (albeit not always cleverly) and stopped the downwards trend for cork-cork in public opinion. It is important to keep the cork forests in Portugal in good health – habitat for many rare plants and animals. And if someone can, it’s the wine industry. At least that’s what the cork industry says.

The environment is a complex issue and there are many parameters in the equation. In some countries it is not only the treatments in the vineyards that are important but also how you treat vineyard staff. All countries (or wine producers) should take good care of the staff of course but what’s called “fair trade” wines come mainly from South America and South Africa. Consumers are have nothing against a low price tag on the wines, but sometimes it would be good if they gave it a thought how come some wines can be so cheap. Perhaps underpaid staff?

10. Talking about fairness, we also remember the sale of Domaine de la Romanée Conti wines in Sweden. The monopoly retailer Systembolaget had pondered for a long time how to launch those wines “fairly” – with only a few hundred bottles and 9 million people, what can you do? Naturally, the Systembolaget launch failed miserably in being “fair”. “Fairness” and Romanée Conti does not function well together of course. (Nor does “fairness” and monopoly, by the way, unless you think a lottery is a reflection of fairness.)

And then we have our activity here at BKWine. We can’t forget that. In particular not this year.

11. 2010 was actually for our little niche in tourism (wine travel) a reasonably good year. We will remember it as a year of quite a happy recovery after a 2009 marked very much by the financial crisis. The “crisis” is still there in the background (with currency uncertainties and national debts) but not so much so.

12. 2010 was also the year when BKWine was given the label “world’s best wine tours” by the American publication Travel & Leisure Magazine, something that made us very proud and that we’re not likely to forget any time soon. We just have to make sure we earn it in the future too!

13. Last but not least another memorable event for us was receiving the letter that, as a great surprise to us, announced that we had won the prize for Best Wine Book of the Year i Sweden for our book A Wine is Born. An unusual book about wine growing and wine making that apparently pleased the jury.

Talking about books, this Brief will be full of book reviews. You will have plenty of suggestions for other good things to read.


Britt & Per

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them ! More on wine:
Guest writers on BKWine.com
Wine videos: BKWine TV
Wine photography



Read all of the Brief #89 here:  http://www.bkwine.com/bkwine_brief/bkwine_brief.htm

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Born Digital Wine Awards – a new prize for online wine communications

>> Monday, December 27, 2010

The Born Digital Wine Awards was launched at the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) and is organised by the same people who are behind the conference. It is a prize for wine communication in all its forms 0- provided it is “born digital”, so first published online or in other digital format. There are five competition categories:

- Best Investigative Wine Story
- Best Editorial Wine Writing
- Best Wine Tourism Feature
- Best Wine Themed Video
- Best Winery Self Produced Content

The winners will get, in addition to pride and glory, 1000 euros. An important thing to point out is that entries can be made in any language! The competition will itself organise translations if needed, unless an English translation is provided. (How that will work in practice is not quite clear…) So it is not “a blog” or “a site” that can enter the competition. It is specific article or item (etc). Nominations are open from December 1 until January 31, 2011. The jury has some grand names in it: Jancis Robinson, Robert Joseph, Evan Schnittman, Elin McCoy and Patrick Schmitt. Nominate yourself or nominate someone you think worthy! More info http://borndigitalwineawards.com

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Diluted wine of fruity wine? Must concentration – what should or should you not do? Boil the must in a vacuum?

>> Thursday, December 23, 2010

If it rains just before the harvest you risk getting a diluted must. The grapes suck up the water and becomes inflated with water. there are several techniques for what is called must concentration. The most commonly used (but not overly common) in France is probably reverse osmosis (click for photos). You can also use cryo-extraction (freezing the grapes).

A third method is to boil the must in a vacuum, vacuum extraction (but it certainly is not a cheap way of doing it). The process implies that you pump the must through a vacuum chamber, at rather low temperature. At low pressure a liquid boils at a much lower temperature. You can even do it at below room temperature if pressure is low enough. Since the evaporation is done at a low temperature only the water is lost, is the thinking. What remains is a more concentrated must. The unwanted water is gone. (Usually only a part of the must is treated and then blended back into the rest of the must in appropriate proportion.) As a result you get a more concentrated, less diluted wine.

This is originally an Italian invention and we have seen such vacuum concentration machines in Italy and in Austria. We recently asked a producer in northern Italy if it really was allowed to use it in his (illustrious) appellation: “Um, well, no in principle it is not allowed. But we are allowed to chaptalise (add sugar to the must to increase the alcohol). So if instead of chaptalisation I use vacuum concentration, and thus raise the sugar contents with the grapes' own natural sugar instead of extraneous sugar, is that not better?” was his answer. Italian logic? As for France we don’t know if it is allowed or not, but we’ve never seen such a machine here. (On the other hand you don’t often see a reverse osmosis machine either even though it is relatively frequently used at major chateau in e.g. Bordeaux.)

Another person who uses the vacuum machine, and talks warmly about it, is Ken Wright at Ken Wright Cellars in the Williamette Valley in Oregon. It rains a lot in Oregon and Wright is happy with the improvement he gets from the machine according to this interview in Gizmodo: We Must Boil This Wine To Save It. But many people who argue for “natural” wines or “organic” wines will get goose bumps if they see it in a wine cellar. They would consider it “unnatural” to treat a wine (must) like that. (One could of course argue that ‘appassimento’ – partially drying the grapes for an extended time period of time – that is used e.g. to make amarone is just another type of must concentration technique.) It is a difficult question of course: Is it better to use vacuum (or cryo-extraction, or reverse osmosis) to “save” a wine, or is it an unnatural way to treat it that will rob the wine of its soul and character? What do you think?

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European Wine Bloggers Conference #EWBC

Earlier this autumn we participated in the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC in hash tag twitter-speak). Two hundred participants from 30 countries – wine bloggers, wine producers, wine marketers and others who were interested in wine, the internet and “social media” – had the opportunity to meet, discuss and taste a lot of good wines over a few intense days in Vienna in Austria. Definitely to be recommended if that’s the kind of things that interests you. Now there is an “official” video on the event. Not a boring conference summary, but rather snippets and glimpses from all the things that were going on. Watch it here: EWBC 2010 on www.youtube.com. Thanks to Austrian Wine Marketing Board for sponsoring it and thanks to Alexander Schukoff Film for the clip. And thanks to Gabriella & Ryan from Catavino, and Robert from Wine Conversations for organising it.

And if you were not there, you can still watch some of the most interesting parts of the EWBC conference on the EWBC channel on Vimeo. for example: Elin McCoy’s keynote on “wine journalism in the ivory tower”. She is Bloomberg’s wine reporter and has written the book the Emperoro of Wine about Robert Parker. Or Evan Schnittman’s keynote on the future of publishing in a digital world. And much more! But it’s not quite the same thing as being there. It’s really meeting the people that is the best part.

The next European wine Bloggers Conference takes place in Franciacorta, Brescia, in northern Italy, starting on October 14, 2011. You can already register here: http://winebloggersconference.org/europe/register/

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Rural sales of locally produced wines and spirits to be allowed in Sweden?

There is currently a debate raging in Sweden on an issue that seen from the outside seems peripheral to say the least. Nevertheless it has escalated to become the most important item in the Swedish government’s review of its alcohol policy. Sweden has a monopoly on alcohol sales in the retail sector. The only shop where you can buy alcohol (stronger than 2.5% ABV) is the government owned Systembolaget shops. Since last 10 to 15 years several small, often rural, producers of wine and spirits have popped up. But since there is a monopoly on alcohol sales they cannot sell their wines (or spirits) at the door, where it is produced. And if the monopoly chooses not to list their product, the only option they have is to export.

At the end of the year a government task force will release a report with a proposal for new alcohol regulations. It is not expected to lead to much change. One of the items expected is that it will be possible for sushi restaurants to serve alcohol (currently you have to serve hot food). And it is this thing with rural sales of wines and spirits. It is a hotly debated item since a) the four parties in the government alliance don’t agree. Some of think it is one way of making rural Sweden more dynamic and to create job opportunities. Others think not and are afraid it will loosen Sweden’s strict drinking laws. And b) some say that it will lead to the demise of the whole monopoly (one can only hope, we say!). In particular, some say that since EU regulations forbid favouring your own country’s products compared to similar products made in other EU countries (e.g. with tariffs or with rules that favour national products), if rural producers are allowed to sell their own products then they must also be allowed to sell products from wine producers in other EU countries.

Read about it in The Local: “Swedish government split on rural booze sales” where for example the liberal party’s spokesperson Carl B Hamilton is quoted as arguing that it may lead to that the EU challenges the Systembolaget exemption from EU competition rules and thus threaten the Systembolaget’s existence. (It is not mentioned in the article though that Hamilton is also a board member of the potentially threatened Systembolaget.)

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How much does it cost to buy a vineyard? Well, between 14,000 and 1 M euro per hectare

Vineyard land prices vary enormously. Recently these difference have been accentuated rather than diminished. César Compadre writes in Terre des Vins on the situation in Bordeaux: Cheapest is of course ‘plain’ Bordeaux, i.e. vineyards with ‘just’ the Bordeaux appellation, in e.g. Entre-deux-Mers. There you can find land below 15,000 euro/ha. Most expensive are, no surprise, the most famous (and small) AOCs: Margaux, Saint Julien, Pomerol, where prices can reach a million euros per hectare. Times are good in Bordeaux for the most famous chateau, but you can almost count them on the fingers of your hand. There are probably less than a hundred in that situation. For the big bulk (no pun intended) of producers life is harder. Many are close to (or have done) bankruptcy. Here are some other price examples:

- Saint Emilion: 200,000 euro/ha
- St Emilions satellites (Lussac, Puisseguin, Montagne…): 100,000 euro/ha
- Pessac-Leognan, Lalande de Pomerol: 150,000 euro/ha
- Blaye, Bourg: just above 20,000 euro/ha
- Haut-Medoc: 35,000 to 45,000 euro/ha

Read more here: terredevins.com

And watch our interview with César Compadre BKWine TV: What future Bordeaux part 1 and What future Bordeaux part 2

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Dramatic cuts in production in Beaujolais

>> Wednesday, December 22, 2010

Many wine producers have hard times. For many in Beaujolais it is not only hard but very tough. There is too much Beaujolais wine made and too little of it bought and drunk. According to The Drinks Business the growers’ organisation has decided on draconian measures to try and get a balance between supply and demand.

Last year 360,000 hl of primeur wine was made. Only 275,000 hl found a buyer. The price fell from 157 euro per hl the previous year to 139 euro/hl, in other words not even 1.40 €/l. This year it was decided to reduce the permitted yield to between 25 and 32 hl/ha compared to the normal 52 hl/ha. Dramatic cut indeed. Will it have any effect? Perhaps, if they also focus on improving the quality of the wines. Read more: thedrinksbusiness.com

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Learn more about wine in Denver

The International wine guild is a wine school for those who are interested in studying wine to become a professional – sommelier, wine trade professional or other. They are based in Denver, Colorado, and have been named one of the five top professional wine schools in the US by Food & Wine Magazine. More info here: http://www.internationalwineguild.com/

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Christmas gift tip for the champagne fanatic: The Champagne Warrior

Slightly more affordable than Pieper-Heidsieck (see other item in this Brief) is The Champagne Warrior. Brad Baker is the self-appointed champagne warrior. One has to conclude that he is a champagne fanatic, and he publishes a newsletter on champagne, called The Champagne Warrior. It contains articles, both short and long, on champagne related subjects as well as extensive tasting notes. In issue #7 (extending over more than 70 pages) you can read about e.g. champagnes with little or no dosage, about the legendary Clos des Goisses from Philipponnat (and how Baker by chance became the happy owner of a whole assortment of such bottles), and an interview with Anselme Selosse. If you don’t mind wading through the quite lengthy tasting notes there is quite a lot of interesting and useful information. A subscription will set you back $90; you can get a sample issue for $1. More info here http://www.champagnewarrior.com/

(Guess who's on the picture!)

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Christmas gift tip: champagne for sale

Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck are two champagne houses both belonging to Remy Cointreau SA. According to Bloomberg, Remy is now looking to sell the two houses. The champagne business made an operating loss of 4 m euro for the 12 months to March this year. Remy Cointreau wants to focus on its core spirits activity (more profitable), and above all cognac. The company is of course the owners of Cognac Remy Martin. the prospective buyer should contact Credit Agricole, the bank that has been tasked with finding a purchaser. Read more bloomberg.com

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Generational Farming at Fox Creek Wines, McLaren Vale

>> Monday, December 20, 2010

Paul Rogers from Fox Creek in McLaren Vale in Australia visited Sweden recently and as we don’t often have the opportunity to meet Australian wine producers we were happy to be able to have a chat with Paul. McLaren Vale is a leading wine region in Australia when it comes to sustainability and we asked Paul what this means to Fox Creek.

“We are a small family grower with 40 hectares of vines and we have always been keen on sustainability”, says Paul. “We use very little spraying – we have reduced the number of sprayings a year from 8 to 4 - we plant trees as wind breakers and we only use natural fertilizers. A big concern here in Australia has always been the water. And the different projects in McLaren Vale to come to terms with this serious issue have been quite successful.”

McLaren Vale is situated 45 kilometres south of Adelaide, on the little Fleurieu Peninsula. The ocean is close by and the refreshing wind is more or less constant. McLaren Vale is a fairly new wine region that has been growing a lot the last 15-20 years. When Fox Creek made its first wine in 1994 there were only 16 wine producers, now there are around 70. McLaren Vale has developed a sustainability program called Generational Farming Project. The idea is to pass the vineyard on to the next generation in better condition by using methods and products that will not harm the natural balance in the vineyard. Through the McLaren Water Plan the growers are more and more switching from potable water to recycled water for their irrigation. The goal is to make McLaren Vale 100% sustainable for irrigation purposes. “In only five years the use of recycled water for irrigation has reached 70 %”, says Paul.

Paul left the telecom industry ten years ago and joined his wife and in-laws at Fox Creek, a decision he does not regret. The star grape at Fox Creek in Shiraz, one of them called Red Baron and available in Sweden for 109 SEK. It’s a wine for pleasure, with a lot of fruit and with a good tannin structure. And the see breeze probably helps to give the wine a nice freshness. New and exciting grape varieties are being planted at Fox Creek: Verdelho, Sangiovese, Albariño and Barbera.

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New (old) site about Austrian wines

Most “generic” wine sites, i.e. sites done by various regions marketing organisations, are generally not much to write home about (or on a blog). Often they are very short on concrete information and heavy on glossy flash illustrations that are hopeless to navigate. The Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) has just released a new version of their “generic” site on Austrian wines: www.austrianwine.com. It is full of useful information, is clean and well designed, and easy to navigate, according to my first quick visit. Probably at the level of the amazingly detailed information material that I was given when I was recently in Austria for the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC), hosted by the AWMB. Congratulations to a well done site.

And on BKWine TV you can watch a series of videos on Austrian wines!

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Children’s book about wine published in France

>> Monday, December 13, 2010

Is it the path towards total deprivation and alcoholism? Or is it quite the opposite? The book editor Emmanuele Garci at Editions Mama Josefa thought that there was a need for a book that explained wine to children in France: the cultural heritage, the agricultural product, the history and to place at table. She found Sandrine Duclos, Cécile Gallineaux and Pierre Touron to create that book. It is called Vignes et Vins: Un Monde a Decouvrir (Vines and wines: a world to discover). It has been printed in 200,000 copies and is now available in book shops in France and soon perhaps in Canada too. And perhaps there will be an English translation… More info decanter.com

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Bordeaux Crus Artisans is back?

Last month we talked about the revived (and strange) Cru Bourgeois classification-but-not-classification in Bordeaux. This month it’s time for the no-one-knows-it-exists classification Cru Artisans. Cru Artisans exists since some 150 years back but during the latter half of the 20th century it fell out of use (or perhaps even earlier) and became virtually unknown. In theory it was chateaux that were perhaps not noble enough or big enough to claim Cru Bourgeois status. After having disappeared last century it was actually recreated in 2006 thanks to a government ruling. But its existence seems to be a well guarded secret – there are not many people who know about it (it’s not even in the Wikipedia!). Only 44 chateaux were classified in 2006. In principle it should be revised every ten years so a new version is due in 2016 or 2017.

However, the Chambre d’Agriculture has decided to open it for new applications this year and by next summer the new additions to Crus Artisans will be announced. (If we understand it correctly it is not a revision, so no one needs to fear exclusion. At this time.) Those that are included in the the classification (version 2011) will have the right to use the label Cru Artisan for vintages back to 2001… All we can say is “oh well”, we’ll just have to wait and see how it goes.

So now we have in Médoc / Bordeaux a classification that is virtually unknown, created in 2006, or perhaps 2011 (Cru Artisans), or in the 19th century; a classification that is not a classification at all and that some observers think will not last long in its current form (Cru Bourgeois de Medoc – see last month’s Brief); and a classification that is 150 years old where today’s vineyard plots have no resemblance to the plots that existed when the classification was done, which on the other hand has no relevance since it is the chateau buildings and not the vineyards that are classified (Grand Crus Classé de Bordeaux). Read more on www.lejournalduvin.com and www.bordeaux.com

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Russian wine producer buys vineyard in Languedoc

>> Friday, December 10, 2010

The Russian wine company Gerrus Group has bought a vineyard in the Languedoc region in France. Chateau des Deux Rocs is a 20 ha property in Cabrières, not far from Montpellier. Gerrus is active in Russia both as a négociant and as a wine producer, owning some 1400 hectares of vines. Read more: www.vitisphere.com

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Norwegian aquavit to become a protected denomination

The Norwegian government is in the process of introducing rules that will make the name “Norwegian aquavit” (norsk akevitt) a protected denomination, according to Kraftbyraa.no. The rules will e.g. require that the aquavit must be made in Norway (seems reasonable), must be made from potatoes (which apparently is not the usual raw material in other Nordic countries or in Germany), and must be aged for at least six months in barrel.

Norsk akevitt is, also according to Kraft Byrå, normally aged in sherry cask that is rarely used in other countries. This gives the Norwegian Aquavit a special character. (Aquavit is a typical Nordic distilled spirit. It is made from a white, neutral spirit to which spices and herbs are added to give it character.) Read more Kraftbyraa.no

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Le Grand Tasting in Paris on December 10 and 11

Le Grand Tasting is the strange name of a consumer wine show in Paris that will take place on December 10 and 11. It is one of the more ‘serious’ wine shows in Paris with many interesting producers showing up and many good wines to taste. It will take place at the Carrousel du Louvre (by the underground shopping area at the Louvre), starting 10.30 in the morning on both the Friday and the Saturday. Well worth visiting if you have a few hours to spare in Paris. http://www.grandtasting.com

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Is there something wrong with the wine, sir?

>> Monday, December 06, 2010

It is not only the cork that can cause problems or “faults” with the wine. There is a whole range of things that can be a wine bad, or at least worse than it should be. It can be due to errors in the vineyard, for example too early (or too late) harvest, mistakes in the wine cellar or other external factors. Jane Anson, who writes the eminently readable blog The New Bordeaux, has written a summary of the faults that you can get in a wine and that will destroy your experience. A very interesting read that you can find here: "Identifying wine faults"

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Win a trip to the wine districts in California

If you live in the US you have the chance to win an all-expenses-paid trip to San Francisco and the wine regions, with two nights at Mendocino. It is the American wine magazine The Wine Enthusiast, in collaboration with Mendocino Wine Company who organises the competition. It is not overly complicated – you just have to fill in your email. And if you don’t win the trip you can win a guitar autographed by Sting (I know some who would certainly prefer that prize!). And if you don’t live in the US you can perhaps find some other fun thing to do. www.vibeincentives.com/messageinabottle/

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Discover the Rhône Valley wines

”Les découverts en Vallée du Rhône” is a giant movable wine tasting along the river Rhône. The purpose is to give you an opportunity to discover Rhône wines. It is organised by Inter Rhône, the growers association, and the next edition takes place on 1-6 March 2011. an excellent opportunity to taste a lot of wines and meet many of the winemakers. Only for professionals though. More info: www.decouvertes-vins-rhone.com

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The world’s best gamay

>> Saturday, December 04, 2010

Gamay is the latest grape variety to get its own ”world’s best” competition. The ”Concours International du Gamay” (the gamay world championship) will take place on January 15, 2011 in Lyons. Unsurprisingly it is organised by Inter Beaujolais, the Beaujolais growers’ association. We hope that it can be a tool to spread the word that gamay is not only a grape for uninspired fruit-juice wines but can also make exciting quality wines! More info: www.concoursgamay.com

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University wine tasting championship: ”20 sur vin”

“20 sur vin” was originally a wine tasting competition for the French Grandes Ecoles (the most prestigious university level schools). Since a few years back it has also been open to Cambridge and Oxford. For 2011 it will be broadened to also invite international competition. There will be contestants from USA (e.g. MIT Sloan, Harvard, and Columbia), Hong Kong, Singapore, and of course Great Britain. The competition will take place during the first half of 2011. Maybe there are more candidates at university wine tasting clubs around the world? More info www.commanderiedubontemps.com

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