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”The world’s smartest way to sell alcohol”

>> Tuesday, December 01, 2009

Usually, this is a story that would only appear in the Swedish edition of the BKWine Brief but this is so outrageous so we have to share it with everyone. In a recent issue of one of the biggest daily paper the Swedish monopoly retailer of wine and spirits, Systembolaget, run a two page ad. No, it was not to sell some good wines. It was to proclaim that they are the world’s best retailer and that the Swedish people should be happy that they have a monopoly market. Because otherwise we would all be alcoholics. So this is a monopoly (Systembolaget, a state owned company) that spends about 2.5 million euro each year, according to their previous CEO, on “marketing”. And marketing in their view is to tell people

a) Systembolaget is the world’s best retailer,

b) Sweden has one of the world’s best selections of wines and spirits (a bit short of 2000 items;. Berry Brothers, alone, in London has some 4000 items. Can you follow the logic? No, we neither. Some years ago they hired Jancis Robinson to do a study of their range. No, I don't know what Jancis' conclusion was. The report is secret and classified information and the monopoly has declined to share it with us),

c) without the monopoly all Swedes would drown in misery, we would have 1,600 more deaths each year, 14,000 more wife beatings and 16 million more sick leave days.

We’re not joking. This is exactly what they say in the ad. That’s based on what they call a “scientific research report”. That report is the creation of a dozen or so alcohol and drug researchers, led by Harold Holder of Berkley, California, who sat down around a table and started guessing: “So how much do we think that alcohol consumption will increase if they start selling it in grocery stores. Oh, I’d say perhaps 30% more or so… What do you think?” Scientific report, yes indeed. They also claim that John D Rockefeller sponsored a major study to see what model for alcohol sales was best and that it concluded that “the Swedish model” was the best. That when prohibition was over many US states introduced alcohol monopolies and most of those are still in existence (that’s very typical for the deceitful facts they use: “many states” introduced monopolies and “most of those” still exist). Some years ago there was a study that considered that it was a peril to democracy when government agencies (or government controlled companies such as the Systembolaget monopoly) took on the role of propagandists. It is the role of the people to decide the polices and for the state to execute them. Not the other way around. The Systembolaget ignores it of course. In Sweden the Systembolaget alcohol monopoly spends 2.5 million euros a year on forming public opinion. No wonder people think they’re great.

What do you think? Comment on "The world's smartest way to sell alcohol" here!

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BKWine TV: [E] European Wine Bloggers Conference 09. How was it for you? (Full version)

>> Monday, November 30, 2009



Interviews with a handful of participants at the European Wine Bloggers Conference ( #EWBC ) that took place in Lisbon, Portugal, in October/November 2009.

What did you think about the conference? How was it for you?:

Featuring:
Miss Vicky Wine (Anne-Victoire Monrozier): http://www.missvickywine.blogspot.com/
Justin Roberts on sherry: http://jerezwine.com/
Maria da Assuncao Foy: http://terruswine.blogspot.com/
Julia Sevenich: http://www.julia7ich.com/
Daniele del Gesso http://www.wineontherocks.com/
aka Finkus Bripp: http://www.finkusbripp.com/
Brett Jones: http://thewinemaestro.co.uk/
Gwendolyn Alley: http://artpredator.wordpress.com/
and also http://winepredator.wordpress.com/
(Sonadora: http://wannabewino.com/, who could not come)
Emidio Santos: http://www.adegga.com/
Rachel Black: http://rachelblack.ca/
and http://twitter.com/Nebbiolata
João Rico: http://www.pumadas.blogspot.com/
Nico James: http://iamvino.com/
and http://www.nicojames.es/
and http://www.vinomotion.com/

More on the EWBC here: http://winebloggersconference.org/europe, the European meeting place for wine bloggers and anyone interested in blogging, wine, social media, networking, twitter, facebook, etc etc.

By BKWine, http://www.bkwine.com

See all our wine videos on our BKWine TV channel: http://www.youtube.com/bkwine

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BKWine TV: [E] (Short) European Wine Bloggers Conference 09. How was it for you?



Interviews with a handful of participants at the European Wine Bloggers Conference ( #EWBC ) that took place in Lisbon, Portugal, in October/November 2009.

What did you think about the conference? How was it for you?:

THIS IS JUST THE INTRO. WATCH THE FULL VIDEO IF YOU'RE CURIOUS ABOUT THE #EWBC. (coming soon)

More on the EWBC here: http://winebloggersconference.org/europe, the European meeting place for wine bloggers and anyone interested in blogging, wine, social media, networking, twitter, facebook, etc etc.

By BKWine, http://www.bkwine.com

See all our wine videos on our BKWine TV channel: http://www.youtube.com/bkwine

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Rosé port

There’s a new category of port wine: rosé. The Port Wine Institute (IDVP) has approved rosé port as a denomination. Already last year Croft launched a rosé port: Croft Pink. Formally, it has been considered a very lightly coloured ruby but now it has its own category. Apart from Croft’s there has not been many rosé ports available, except an own label brand in some British super markets. The rosé must by made by the saignée method, i.e. a short maceration on the skins before the lightly coloured grape juice is separated from the skinks. In other words, it is not allowed to make it by blending red and white, as is allowed in Champagne but in few other European wine districts. We have not tasted it but reports indicate that we have not missed a great deal

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Antinori makes wine in Romania

“[Romaina] has all the right ingredients to produce great wines: perfect climate, very good exposure, great terroirs.” Piero Antinori says to Decanter. He has just launched his first Romanian wine, Cantus Primus 2007, made in a joint venture with British wine importer Halewood International. The wine will retail for around €8-9. The vineyards will in time cover 106 ha. More info: www.decanter.com

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Parsed wine

>> Wednesday, November 25, 2009

http://www.bkwine.com/images/strange-carafe.jpgAre you looking for a nice gift to give to your enemy? Perhaps one of the strange decanters made by the artist Etienne Meneau can fit the bill? The shape of the decanters is reminiscent of the root system of a vine (or an upside down tree). Each can contain one normal bottle of wine. The price is a little bit over 2000 euro. On the site there is an instruction on how to use them: “after a short training you can perfectly pour wine in a glass without any drop anywhere”. To your enemy? Can you imagine washing it! http://the-strange-decanter.blogspot.com/

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Box bar?

>> Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Can you make BiBs trendy? The first “pop up bar” is what they call it. The wine importer Philipson Söderberg has launched a wine bar dedicated to the “celebration of bag-in-box wines” in the centre of Stockholm. They will mainly (only?) be serving Fleur du Cap wine from plastic bags in cartons. It sounds about as inspired as if you launched a restaurant proclaiming to use only frozen raw materials – nothing fresh – in the cooking. Or if you organised a concert and only provided a transistor radio as a loudspeaker. Bizarre. Some kind of inverted snobbism? http://boxbar.se/ (Trivia: more than 50% of all wine sold in the monopoly wine shops in Sweden is sold in bag-in-box.)

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White wine is dangerous for your teeth

The high acidity found in most white wines can damage your teeth, according to a report in Nutrition Research. The acidity in the wine attacks the calcium and erodes the enamel. If you eat e.g. cheese with the wine the effect may be lessened. This is perhaps not big news. Have you ever been to a tasting of a large number of Alsace wines or Champagnes you may have noticed the unpleasant feeling in the teeth afterwards. To avoid sever damages one should avoid brushing the teeth after drinking or tasting the wines, it is suggested. Good advice, we think, that our dentist agrees with. Last time we were there she recommended a new type of tooth paste (called Pro-émail) that supposedly helps rebuild the enamel. news.bbc.co.uk

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Mechanical harvest at Isole e Olena, Tuscany

>> Monday, November 23, 2009



http://www.bkwine.com/wine_tours/wine_tours.htm
--- Harvest at Isole e Olena winery in Chianti, Tuscany. Harvesting the grapes with a tractor - mechanical harvest machine.

You can see the ripe grape bunches in the vineyard before harvest and the naked grape stems that remain after the harvester has passed.

In the vineyard in Chianti, Tuscany, Italy.

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Machine a vendanger pour les vendanges chez le vignoble Isole e Olena a Toscane en Italie.

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By BKWine, http://www.bkwine.com

See all our wine videos on our BKWine TV channel: http://www.youtube.com/bkwine

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Amazon.com closes down it’s wine shop

It was big new in ecommerce when Amazon.com decided to launch a wine shop. but even before the shop has started they have decided to close down the wine sale project at Amazon. We haven’t seen an official explanation for it, but industry observers think that it has to do with logistical and regulatory difficulties. In the USA it is very complicated to sell wines from one state to another. There are many rules and regulations (and different ones in each state) that stipulates how it must be done, sometimes requiring impossible logistics or other restrictive requirements. Unfortunately, since this severely restricts the choice of wine for consumers in many states. The system was created after the prohibition and remains largely in place. It is of course defended by many of the established players, whose positions are protected by it. www.winebusiness.com

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The (new) ultimate wine site for everything? Findawine.com

>> Tuesday, November 17, 2009

There are a surprising amount of people who think that there is money to be made from online wine sites. Some are wine lovers, some of business people, and some try and be both. FindAWine.com probably falls into the latter category.

Founded by two young French business school graduates, it’s been in the works for almost three years. Finally, it’s now launched. And you can try it here: FindAWine.com.

If you want to find where to buy a wine you can use Findawine (just like Twenga, PriceRunner, Kelkoo, or Wine-Searcher). If you want to store your tasting notes and manage your cellar, you can do it (just like Snooth or Adegga for example). If you want to find the best wine and food match the have an artificial intelligence engine to help you. If you want to read up on wine knowledge, they have 1000+ pages with wine articles. If you want to read comments and tasting notes on a wine you can do it, Parker’s, Tanzer’s and other “authorities” (but it is unclear what kind of copyright rights they have to publish those notes though), or other community members. If you want to partake in a wine community you can do it (just like at Wine 2.0 or OWC for example).

And this points perhaps to the concern I have about FindAWine. It’s trying to be all things to everyone about wine. It’s as if there could be one site that answers all your questions about wine and does all you could ever want to do. And generally, that’s not how things work today on internet. Often, the specialists have an edge over the generalists.

Is this a sign of the Frenchs’ belief that there can be one true (and centrally managed) source of information (like the plans they had for a humanly managed search engine to compete with Google)?

The only way to find out if it makes sense is to try it and see if it’s useful to you. And that you can do here: FindAWine.com. Oh, and the money? Well, they intend to make the money on commissions from the online wine shops. Each time you go from a recommendation on FindAWine to a wine shop and buy a bottle they get a cut.

Oh, and in spite of the name the site is in French.

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Wine of the Month

Criteria: an interesting wine (not too cheap) and one that you can enjoy with dinner or friends (not too expensive). And very good!

Åsa’s wine of the month:

Rosé du Coteau from the agricultural institute in Aosta – cheap rose with class

This month’s wine comes from Valle d’Aosta in northern Italy. The Rosé d’Aosta is made by the Institut Agricole Régional. They frequently experiment with various techniques in the vineyards. It is an easy-drinking rosé made from the gamay grape. The vines are planted in a vineyard at 800 m altitude on a steep slope. It goes well with starters or simpler main courses that are not too fat or heavy and not too strong flavours. It is very fresh with a hint of bitterness in the finish that avoids that it gets boring. The colour is light with some beautiful hints of brownish yellow. Excellent value for money. Approx 5 euro. www.iaraosta.it

Jack's wine of the month:

A Amarone 2006 from Alpha Zeta

It is a dark November evening, just a plain weekday, and you need some red to go with your parmesan that you just picked up at the cheese shop. The scenario requires quite a substantial red wine and the solution is at hand: Try a A Amarone 2006 from Alpha Zeta (~10€ for a half bottle). It gives you lots of fruity flavours, good concentration, quite dense, with a good long finish. It survives even the stronger cheeses. In spite of the high alcohol (15%) the wine is balanced and gives you a lot of character for a relatively modest price. You can also keep it in your cellar for a few years but it’s delicious to cheese this November!

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BKWine Pick: Au Vieux Comptoir, Bar à vins – Restaurant, Paris 1

Au Vieux Comptoir, Bar à vins – Restaurant, Paris 1

A popular restaurant on a side street to the busy rue Rivoli. Nice atmosphere and very friendly and helpful staff (well worth underlining!). At lunch time you can have Today’s Special for 14€, traditional French cooking, e.g. a ‘hachis parmentier’ (a gratin of mashed potatoes with minced meat), excellent to try in winter when you need to warm up. If you like beef you should try their tempting côtes de boeuf, a giant ‘beef chop’ from cows of the Maine Anjou race (but you should be two persons sharing – it weighs in at 1.4 kilos!) with sauce béarnaise. Or try the excellent charcuteries from Alsace, the Jura of the Basque countries, the veal from Corrèze or the scallops. All is made from prime raw material. They have an interesting wine list with, unusually, many wines served by the glass. A bistro one will come back to!

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Pick: Restaurant Cap Sud, Tours

>> Monday, November 16, 2009

Restaurant Cap Sud, Tours

A charming little restaurant in the heart of Tours in the Loire valley, located between the Cathedral and the Vieux Tours. Open Tuesdays to Saturdays. In short: very high ambitions and moderate prices! It’s an innovative cuisine, with inspired presentations of the dishes. The emphasis is on southern French raw materials and products, lots of shell fish and vegetables. At lunch time you can get a three course menu for around 15 euro, in the evening they have a “small” menu (not on Sat) for just under 20€, and one for 38€. The wine list offers a range of wines from all over France, starting at 20€. They have several interesting Vouvrays on the list.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Pick: Domaine Marronniers, Chablis

Domaine Marronniers, Chablis

We find Domaine Marronniers in the small village of Préhy, a short drive from Chablis itself. There Bernard Legland and his wife welcome you for a wine tasting of a range of Chablis wines. The domaine has some 20 ha of vineyards: petit Chablis, Chablis, and Chablis premier cru. Bernard is fond of the crispy, clean style of Chablis so none of his wines are aged in oak. “Why would we want to hide what we get from our soil?” he asks. In his view, Chablis has a unique soil, that makes Chablis a true vin de terroir, with a steeliness and minerality that resembles no other. If you don’t believe him, try his very drinkable, crispy Petit Chablis 2008 (6.5€ at the cellar door) or the Chablis 2007 with very refreshing aromas of citrus fruit and a nice minerality. Very good. If you are looking for something a bit more complex you can try the 1er Cru Montmains 2007 (11.50€), still a bit reserved but with very good development potential. Or a Chablis Vieilles Vignes 2005 (9€) already with a bit of maturity and a nice, honeyed character.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Pick: Domaine Monplezy, Pezenas, Languedoc

Domaine Monplezy, Pezenas, Languedoc

They make Vin de Pays des Cotes de Thongue, one of the better known vin de pays denominations in the Languedoc. Grapes are mainly syrah, grenache, carignan, cinsault, merlot, roussanne and marsanne. They have 22 ha of vineyards with not very fertile soil (which is of course good for the quality of the wine). It is beautifully located, surrounded by the typical Languedoc garrigue with it aromatic herbs. The Languedoc flag flutters in the wind in the yard and the wines have a very definite Languedoc character. Good fruit and generous wines. Try for instance the cuvée Felicité that they harvest by hand, made from carignan, grenache and syrah. It gets a short aging in oak barrels. Spicy aromas mixed with some liquorice and freshly roast coffee. Perfect with a roast leg of lamb or grilled lamb chops!

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Brief #76 is out!

>> Sunday, November 15, 2009

It’s done. The book is on its way from the printer’s. We haven’t seen it yet but will soon. We’re very excited. On Thursday November 19 we will have a launch event in Stockholm, so if you happen to be there you are of course welcome: Restaurant Fellini, Riddargatan 21, 16.00-18.30. (A copy of the invitation can be found here.) And if you can’t free up your time so early in the evening we will be at the Prime Wine Bar on Östermalmstorg from 19.30.

The book tells the story of how a wine is made. It’s aimed at the wine enthusiast but can also be used as a wine course book. It’s quite unusual in that it goes into details of vine growing and winemaking – but with a text aimed at the wine lover.

The story in the book evolves around two themes: First, our innumerable conversations with winemakers, interviews, vineyard visits (we visit some 200-300 vineyards each year), wine shows etc. They are to a great extent the ones who tell the story in the book, explaining what they do and why. Secondly, we show that there are rarely any absolute truths. There are always different sides to an argument. If one winemaker says that you should absolutely have stainless steel fermentation tanks to make good wines, his neighbour will be convinced concrete is the best. The same goes for closures, oak, filtering, planting density etc etc. And both are generally right and make good wines. The interesting thing then is why you do this or that. And we explain, or let them explain, that in the book.

The book has two sections: The first half is dedicated to the vineyard: planting, vines and grape varieties, training and pruning methods, soil, climate, illnesses, manual vs. mechanical harvest etc. We also try and get to grips with this thing “terroir”. The vineyard section ends with an explanation of organic wine growing and biodynamic wines (issues that are often misunderstood!). We try and explain it in a practical, down to earth way.

The second half talks about the work in the wine cellar: The importance of sorting (and how you do it), crushing, pressing, fermentation is looked at in detail, as is the ‘upbringing’ of the wine (élevage) and the aging, the influence of oak, assemblage (blending), fining and filtering (should you or should you not?) etc. We look at what various substances you can add in the winemaking to control and influence the result. Closures have a chapter of their own (another subject that is often misunderstood): natural cork, plastic cork, screw caps, etc, as does ‘special’ vinifications: sweet wine and sparkling wines. Finally we look at defects and problems, e.g. corked wine and reduction, and what types of wine you should cellar and age.

One day we hope to have it published in English! (Currently it is in Swedish only.)

There’s been an some interesting discussions on the internet recently about drinking.

One has been with a Swedish food writer who wrote a blog post about the charms of getting drunk. We find it a bit difficult to understand that attitude. If even adults, presumable responsible people, think that the primary reason to drink wine (or other alcoholic beverages) is because you get drunk or more or less inebriated, then how can you expect youngsters to develop an intelligent and responsible attitude to drinking? We voiced our opinions in a comment to her blog post but it seems we did not get much support for our views. (If you read Swedish you can read more here)

Another discussion on the internet has been about children and wine, primarily from an American perspective. Some writers have compared the American attitude to the “wise” European view that making wine a taboo subject for children is not the best way of giving them a sense of what it is and a sense of responsibility. Perhaps it is better to let the children wet their finger in the wine and taste it, and learn what it is about (part of the gastronomy around the family dinner table) rather than hiding the issues of alcohol behind a wall and making it into a so-much-more-desirable forbidden fruit? It seems the authors of the blog post have not understood how things work in Sweden (or in the UK?), or perhaps those countries are not considered part of Europe. Read more below.

And also, the latest publicity campaign from the Swedish retail monopoly underlines that Swedes are only half a step away from when we were savages and rampaging and pillaging Vikings. They have taken out double spread ads in the main daily paper proclaiming “We invented the World’s smartest way of selling alcohol”! Who said Swedes were a humble and self-effacing people? Read more below.

Wine bloggers

We’re just back from the European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC in twitter-speak). It was a great event and very interesting. Wine bloggers comes in all flavours, shapes and sizes! It was an unlikely mix of people. But whatever kind of people they are they are terribly nice fellas! the conference agenda covered lots of things: wine tourism, 1-0-1- of wine blogging, how to video blog, how to monetise blogging (BKWine was on the panel of that one) and much much, more. But more important than the sessions were all the people you met, talked with and discussed with. And there were an awful lot of excellent Portuguese wines to taste too! Something to put on your agenda for next year if you are a wine blogger!

Samples and freebies

Another big discussion on the interent (and originally on the European Wine Bloggers Conference, #EWBC) was on wine samples and freebies. Should wine bloggers accept free samples from importers or wine producers? Is it acceptable to take samples? Should one always specify in the blog articles that the reviewed wines have been received as samples? Interesting questions. But not necessarily limited to wine bloggers. Read more about it further down.

Britt & Per

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !

More on wine:


Read all of the BKWine Brief here!

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”The world’s smartest way to sell alcohol”

>> Saturday, November 14, 2009

Usually, this is a story that would only appear in the Swedish edition of the BKWine Brief but this is so outrageous so we have to share it with everyone.

In a recent issue of one of the biggest daily paper the Swedish monopoly retailer of wine and spirits, Systembolaget, run a two page as. No, it was not to sell some good wines. It was to proclaim that they are the world’s best retailer and that the Swedish people should be happy that they have a monopoly market. Because otherwise we would all be alcoholics. So this is a monopoly (Systembolaget, a state owned company) that spends about 2.5 million euro each year, according to their previous CEO, on “marketing”. And marketing in their view is to tell people

a) Systembolaget is the world’s best retailer,

b) Sweden has one of the world’s best selections of wines and spirits (a bit short of 2000 items;. Berry Brothers, alone, in London has some 4000 items. Can you follow the logic? No, we neither. Some years ago they hired Jancis Robinson to do a study of their range. No, I don't know what Jancis' conclusion was. The report is secret and classified information and the monopoly has declined to share it with us),

c) without the monopoly all Swedes would drown in misery, we would have 1,600 more deaths each year, 14,000 more wife beatings and 16 million more sick leave days.

We’re not joking.

http://www.bkwine.com/images/systembolaget-smartaste-annons.jpg

This is exactly what they say in the ad. That’s based on what they call a “scientific research report”. That report is the creation of a dozen or so alcohol and drug researchers, led by Harold Holder of Berkley, California, who sat down around a table and started guessing: “So how much do we think that alcohol consumption will increase if they start selling it in grocery stores. Oh, I’d say perhaps 30% more or so… What do you think?” Scientific report, yes indeed.

They also claim that John D Rockefeller sponsored a major study to see what model for alcohol sales was best and that it concluded that “the Swedish model” was the best. That when prohibition was over many US states introduced alcohol monopolies and most of those are still in existence (that’s very typical for the deceitful facts they use: “many states” introduced monopolies and “most of those” still exist).

Some years ago there was a study that considered that it was a peril to democracy when government agencies (or government controlled companies such as the Systembolaget monopoly) took on the role of propagandists.

It is the role of the people to decide the polices and for the state to execute them. Not the other way around. The Systembolaget ignores it of course. In Sweden the Systembolaget alcohol monopoly spends 2.5 million euros a year on forming public opinion. No wonder people think they’re great.

What do you think?

If you read Swedish, here's a bit more information:
"Utvecklingen av alkohol- och tobaksbruk i Sverige"
"Vi är bäst i världen! Hurra vad vi är bra!" - Systembolaget
"Systembolaget vinner pris för varumärkeskampanj"

And we might add that the ambition of the Swedish monopoly and the Swedish anti-alcohol lobby is to lobby the EU administration to introduce more "Swedish style" regulations across Europe, as can be seen by e.g. their international Dear Mr Barroso campaign, albeit most of their lobbing is done behind the scenes.

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Free samples and free tastings - this thing with disclosure

One of the discussions that came up on the recent European Wine Bloggers Conference (#EWBC) was about free wine samples: should bloggers accept free tasting samples from importers or wine producers? It was debated in all directions. Some said that wine bloggers should not accept samples. Others meant that it was OK to accept samples provided you made ‘full disclosure’ (“this wine tastes excellent, and btw I’ve had it as a free sample”…). We don’t agree.

For us, this is rather simple:

1) wine bloggers (and we considers ourselves as such) are no different than others who write about wine in e.g. printed media,

2) it is impossible to write professionally (or on a certain level, even if not professionally) about wine without accepting various kinds of freebies,

3) what counts is the writer’s ethics and personal integrity and stringency.

Conclusion: wine bloggers (like other writers) can, or should, accept free samples and there is no need to ‘disclose’ that certain wines have been received as free samples.

If you write positively about a wine just because you have received it as a sample (perhaps in the hope of getting more?) you will with time loose your credibility as a critic and commentator.

To have a disclosure policy or at every occasion specify that this is based on a free sample is futile. What is the reader supposed to think? “Ah, this comment is based on a free sample so I don’t think it’s quite neutral and not as accurate as this critic’s usual comments”?

Either you have a good writer’s ethic and then disclosure does not make any difference, or you are a weak soul and corrupt (unduly kind to samples) and then it won’t make any difference to do ‘disclosure’ either.

Compare it to e.g. sports journalists or music critics who write in papers – should they specify in their articles that “I have had a free ticket to this event”? No, we don’t think so. Everyone takes it for granted. (In the US the FTC, Federal Trade Commission, recently published a recommendation that bloggers should be obliged to give disclosure for samples, and other freebies. The strange thing with this is that the FTC does not require the same kind of disclosure from the printed press. Incomprehensible.)

In other words: dear wine producers and wine importers, do send us samples, or invite us to tastings and other such things! In reality, with full disclosure, we receive very few wine samples (but a bit more often go to press lunches or tastings). If we like the wine we taste we will write a good review. If we don’t like it we will not review it or perhaps write something a bit critical.

Does this mean that we may be influenced by marketing efforts? Yes, of course but there’s nothing negative in that. If we do get a sample we are more likely to taste the wine and write about it (if we like it) than if we don’t receive a sample, which means we’re influenced by the marketing. Is it a problem? No, we don’t think so, as long as we are honest with our writing and don’t write up things positively just because we’ve had a freebie.

Actually, I very much doubt that any serious wine writer (or other journalist) can honestly claim to have a “no freebies” policy. One who never accepts samples. Never goes to free wine tastings. Never accept lunch invitations. Never travel to vineyards on paid expenses or accepts tasting samples at wineries, etc. I don’t think such a writer exists.

Read on:


So, what do you think? Vote or write a comment!



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”Let the children taste wine”

In many places this is a controversial statement, not least in Sweden, our country of origin. But there’s recently been quite some discussion on that theme on the internet. It started with Dr Vino (Tyler Colman) who wrote about his six year old son coming home from school with a pamphlet bunching beer, wine, Marijuana, crack etc together as dangerous drugs. The post has (today) 54 comments.

That sparked Gabriella Opaz (Catavino) to write a post where she argues for the reintroduction of the word “experimentation” into the American dictionary (Gabriella has many talents, one of which is to write strange headlines). She criticises the American attitude of forbidding things (e.g. anyone under 18/20/21, depending on state, tasting wine) and compares it to how children are brought up in Europe, where, she says, there’s nothing secret or forbidden about wine. Instead the children learn about wine at the dinner table, and taste wine at an early age together with the family. This “European” attitude doesn’t create the aura around wine as something forbidden, dangerous and therefore exciting, as is the case in the USA, that leads to many alcohol related problems. According to Gabriella. There are quite a few interesting comments on Gabriella’s article too.

As a follow up to that, Finkus Bripp (a pseudonym for a Canadian sommelier living in Germany) wrote about his experience growing up in an Italian family in Canada, where at every dinner there was wine on the table, wine that he was given a taste of already at a young age. When he grew older, at the age when youngsters start ‘partying’ he was didn’t understand the attitude of his friends at school when they wanted to raid the wine or liquor cabinet and get ‘drunk’ for the party. For him, wine was just something you had with dinner and there wasn’t any particular fun involved in the ‘drunk’ part of it for him.

This is hardly an argumentation that goes down well in many countries today, certainly not in Sweden or England. The Swedish anti-alcohol propaganda makes it clear that if anyone under 18 (the legal drinking age, but you have to be 20 to shop in the state owned wine stores) is given a taste of alcohol they will be only a small step away from alcoholism and social misery. The information also makes it quite clear that the main purpose of drinking is getting drunk.

I think that I need to explain to Gabriella that Sweden, and probably England too, are not part of Europe. At least not her Europe.

What's your opinion? Vote or post a comment!



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Book review: Wine Brands

>> Thursday, November 12, 2009

Wine Brands
By Evelyne Resnick
Publisher: Palgrave Macmillan

This is an interesting book that we certainly recommend to those who are interested in the wine business and internet marketing. Evelyne Resnick is French and has a PhD from the Sorbonne. She has also taught at UCLA so has extensive American experience and is now working as a web marketing consultant with her company Resmo. The book starts off with a few chapters that try and map the traditional wine consumer and how younger generations (Generation X, Millenials etc) are, or may be, changing the scene. It also includes some very broad brush descriptions of the wine markets in different continents. Resnick then moves on to the marketing section of the book talking about how marketing is different in a world where the internet is a dominant communications media. She then looks at the evolution of web marketing since “Web 1.0” to Web 2.0 and even spending a few words on social networking. The final chapter talks about wine and branding. Overall, it is a book that a business person involved in wine should enjoy reading and we recommend it as such. However, it is also a book that leaves me confused as to the aim and ambition of the book, and wanting for more on some of the subjects that were particularly relevant but too brief to be useful. So let’s look at some of my concerns: First, the title – the book is not really much about “wine brands”. It’s more of a broad brush sketch of the world wine market and wine marketing on the internet history, so why call it Wine Brands? Another thing is that almost all of the subjects touched on in the book leave you wanting for more – or wishing they had been excluded to leave more room for the important stuff. For example, it does not really go much into detail on how to use the web for marketing wine today, which appears to be the books main aim. Would it not have been better to spend more space on that rather than include too-general-to-be-practical market characterisations of all the world’s wine markets as well as a too brief (as it is) “history of wine on the internet”? I also get the feeling that the author has accepted some of the stories from the wineries, some of which are her consulting clients, too much at face value to sound credible (e.g. is it really so that Yellow Tail easily could sell their wines at $10 but choose deliberately to sell them at $6.99?). Perhaps my criticism is due to that I have a business and marketing management as well as internet background and from that perspective find it “leaving me still hungry” (as the French would say). Perhaps not. In any case, the book is worth reading for the ideas it may spark and for some of the entertaining stories it contains.

Click here for more book reviews on my site. You will also find links to on-line book shops on that page.

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Are all winemakers wrong when they macerate grapes to extract ”good” tannins?

>> Wednesday, November 11, 2009

Everyone knows that the tannins in the grape skins are “good”: softer, riper, more harmonious. The grape pip (seed) tannins are “bad”: more aggressive, harsher, and more difficult to integrate in the wine. That is, at least, what all winemakers tend to think. Are they all wrong? At a recent meeting at the American Society for Enology and Viticulture (ASEV) some participants argued that yes they are all wrong, and seed tannins are not bad but good. Seed tannins are, for example, shorter molecules compared to skin tannins, which is generally considered better. So perhaps the world’s winemakers need to review the way the work with tannins and the way the macerate and extract their wines? Read more in Wines and Vines

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Organic wine growing up 35% in Catalonia

According to the latest statistics (up to August) from Catalonia the total surface area of vineyards farmed organically has increased by 35% over the first eight months this year. Organic vineyard farming has now reached 3031 ha. This increase, for only eight months, is more than the total increase for 2008. More info: vitisphere.com

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Laroche winery sold to Jeanjean

>> Tuesday, November 10, 2009

The well known wine producer Laroche has now been sold to Jeanjean. Michel Laroche thereby concludes his efforts to sell the company that he has created. Laroche has vineyards and négociant activities in Chablis (100 ha of vineyards), in the Languedoc (Mas la Chevalière, 40 ha), Chile (Vino Punto Alto, 23 ha), and in south Africa (l’Avenir, 75 ha). Michel Laroche has been very successful in building his business, not least internationally, but has recently suffered some difficulties. For the latest accounting year (’08-’09) the turnover reached 27.3 M€, down by 17%, with a net loss of -1.6 M€. The previous year the loss was -0.6 M€. With this acquisition Jeanjean takes a substantial step up the quality ladder. Jeanjean is also a family business, base in the Languedoc region, but more focused on lower priced wines. The merged business will include 1450 ha of vines and is estimated to reach a turnover of 200 M€. It will operate under a new name (neither Jeanjean nor Laroche). Michel Laroche will remain in charge of the operations in Chablis for two years. According to Decanter the deal is valued at 52 M€ (24 M€ cash and 28 M€ in assumed debts). It is also said that Laroche will own 12.7% of the merged business. More info vitisphere.com and decanter.com

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Is this Europe’s revenge for the American wine louse?

At the end of the 19th century the vine louse (phylloxera vastatrix) arrived in Europe from North America. It had lived peacefully in symbiosis with the American vines but arriving in Europe, with different vines (vitis vinifera), it killed all vines across the continent over a few decades. A bit over a century later, today, the European Grapevine Moth (lobesia botrana) has been discovered in vineyards in California. Larvae from the moth have been identified recently in Napa Valley, raising concerns that Californian vineyards will be devastated. The moth eats both the flowers and the fruit of the vine. It can cause sever damage, e.g. rot in the vineyard. It is as yet unclear exactly how great a risk there is for a serious attack. More info www.pressdemocrat.com (the insect on the photo is not the grapevine moth)

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Wokingham Wine Festival

>> Monday, November 09, 2009

Another charity event: the Wokingham Wine Festival on December 5 and 6. It is for the benefit of the Multiple Sclerosis Society of the Thames Valley. Wine lovers can come and taste and buy interesting and unusual wines supplied by members of the Association of Small Direct Wine Merchants. More information on www.wokinghamwinefestival.co.uk

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Naked Absolut – Absolut irony

We read in the newsletter WoW News (no, it's not about computer games!) that Absolut Vodka is launching a new marketing campaign: Naked Absolut: ” In An Absolut World, There Are No Labels” with e.g. the catch phrase Absolute Anticipation. They have launched a special bottle on the theme, without any label. WoW quotes Kristina Hagbard, Global PR Manager: “For the first time we dare meeting the world completely naked. We are launching a bottle without label and logo, to show that it is less important what’s on the outside. It’s what’s inside that count”. It is certainly a laudable initiative to want to promote diversity and fight prejudices against sexual preferences (which is their aim it appears). However, can it be more ironic? What would be left of Absolute if it didn’t have the very distinctive packaging (the special bottle shape included) and the sophisticated marketing? The label is, after all, just one aspect of the “outside”. Does anyone really think that Absolut has become one of the world’s best selling spirits purely because the contents is so much better? www.wownews.se

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Difficult times in Bordeaux – Let’s increase production!

AOC Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur are one of several regions that have a difficult time. 2008 was a small harvest and some areas were seriously hit by hail in 2009. Export and demand in general is down. Prices are falling. So what is the response from AC Bx & Bx Sup? Increase production. Next year they will introduce an “individual complementary volume” (Volume complémentaire Individuel, VCI) which means that the wine producers can increase their production above the usual limits. In principle to compensate for unforeseen climate effects (unforeseen? Has it never hailed before?). Doesn’t it seem odd to counter-act falling prices and lack of demand by increasing production? That, one would expect, will lead to even lower prices and more surplus. They also hope that the (understandably) much contested new designation Bordeaux 1er Cru will help creating demand. (Hands up all who think that consumers might be mislead into thinking that “Bordeaux 1er Cru” is similar to/same as “Bordeaux Grand Cru Classé”!) More info www.vitisphere.com

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Revue des Vins de France (finally) launches a web site

>> Sunday, November 08, 2009

About time. The leading French wine magazine La Revue des Vins de France (RVF) has launched a web site. They intend to publish their library of tasting notes (65 0000 wines), wine producer profiles and much more. The RVF journalists will write blogs on the site and they will have a reader forum. Some of the information is free but to have full access you have to pay a subscription. What we don’t like is that even if you subscribe to the magazine you have to pay for online access. In their launch information they underline their long history: 80 years of wine journalism (the world’s first wine magazine?). That’s of course very good, but not having had a web site until 2009 gives the impression more of living on past glories than in the present. Hopefully that will change. www.larvf.com

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Buy a potential vineyard in Pomerol

Pomerol is a small appellation in Bordeaux with only 780 ha of vineyards. There is also a horse racing course. But they only have four races per year and they have now decided to close it and sell the land – so they are looking for buyers. The interesting thing about it is that the 13 ha, a substantial plot in the appellation, could be planted with vines and transformed into a vineyard (Chateau du Cheval?). If it is possible to do is another question. For example, the buyers would need to have planting rights (cf the piece on the AREV in this Brief), which they don’t have. As a vineyard the land would be worth between 1 and 3 million euros. Per hectare. As a race course, or agricultural land, much, much less. More info newbordeaux.blog.co.uk

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American wine consumption continues to grow

>> Saturday, November 07, 2009

The forecast from the US Wine Market: Impact Databank Review and Forecast 2009 Edition shows that wine consumption in the US will continue to increase in 2009, albeit with only 0.6%. It will then be the 16th consecutive year that consumption is up. It is nevertheless affected by the recession: there’s a shift towards lower priced wines and thus towards bigger volume branded wines. And Americans tend more and more to drink American wines; imported wines have suffered, partially due to the weak dollar of course. Read more www.winespectator.com

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What is the worlds best classical symphony? The world’s best car? The best pub in London? The world’s best champagne?

Well, that would depend on what one is looking for and one’s taste you may think. But not so for wine perhaps? Many people have some kind of belief that there is an absolute scale of quality for wine. The magazine Fine Champagne has decided on what is “the world’s best champagne” in a recent ranking. They have tasted 1000 champagne and selected the best. The world’s tenth best champagne is, apparently, Chartogne-Taillet non-vintage.

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French wine consumption reaches record low

According to estimations by the French customs (who keep track of it) the French will drink less wine in the current 12 month period ’08-’09 (“la campagne 08-09”) than ever before: only 30 million hl, down by 9% since the previous year. Wines with appellation controllée do better, decreasing with “only” 7%, whereas all others shrunk by 11%. www.vitisphere.com

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Chile and France bestselling wine countries in Denmark

>> Friday, November 06, 2009

Some wine statistics:

According to the Wine and Spirit Organisation in Denmark, and Vinavisen.dk Chile is the top wine supplier to Denmark with a market share of 17%, followed closely by France with 16%. Italy has increased its share significantly, as has South Africa. Australia and Great Britain (!) are the big losers with respectively falls of -5% and -4%.

Total imports shrunk with almost 13% to reach 87 million litres. Numbers are for the first six months of 2009, compared with 2008. It’s interesting to note how different this is from neighbouring Sweden's preferences. The full list:

1. Chile 17.2% (+1.4%)
2. France 16.5% (+1.2%)
3. Italy 14.7% (+2.9%)
4. Spain 11.8% (+1.8%)
5. South Africa 10% (+2.8%)
6. Australia 9.3% (-5.2%)
7. Germany 8.3% (+0.9%)
8. USA 3.3% (+0.1%)
9. Argentina 3.2% (-0.9%)
10. Great Britain 2.8% (-4.6%)
11. Portugal 1.2% (+0.2%)
12. New Zeeland 0.6% (+0.2%)
13. Greece 0.2% (+0.1%)
14. Others 0.9% (-0.2%)

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Rhone vineyard next location for American ’reality show’

>> Thursday, November 05, 2009

According to a press release from Vignobles Investissement they have been tasked by the Film Commission of Luberon Vaucluse to find a suitable winery location to record a series of reality shows. It is the American producer PBS that is producing the series. Apparently, the programs have already been shot, during the 2009 harvest. When can we hope to see the result? http://thewinemakers.tv/

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Just like hand sewn shoes?

Chateau Angélus in Saint Emilion, Bordeaux, is not making hand sewn shoes but something of the sort – haute couture. They destem their grapes by hand. When you make red wine in nine cases out of ten (or more) you destem the grape bunches. Using a destemmer, you feed it with grape bunches and out comes at one end the separated grapes and at the other end the stems. Voilà. After that the grapes are (usually) crushed and the fermentation begins. At Chateau Angelus they think this is too brutal a treatment for the grapes so they recruited some 50 persons (we estimate) to do the destemming by hand, separating the berries from the stems… Does it make any difference? It is difficult to believe it does, but we have not made a comparative tasting. Watch the video here: www.chateau-angelus.com

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Rollan de By in Bordeaux launches single-variety collection

>> Wednesday, November 04, 2009

Domaines Rollan de By, best known for the Château Rollan de By in the Médoc, has launched a four bottle case with single variety wines. Each bottle contains wine from just a single grape variety. The four bottles are made from cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, and petit verdot (no doubt they did not have any malbec or carmenère in the vineyards). It gives you the possibility to taste each variety in its pure state. and you can play the game “make your own blend (assemblage)”, mixing the wines to see which proportions you prefer. But it is a rather expensive game. The four bottles retail for 400€! Can be found at La Cave de Joël Robuchon in Paris. We also wonder how it works with the AOC on the wines (that according to our info is Medoc). Normally, a wine should be “typical” to get the right to an appellation controllée, and single variety wines are extremely unusual (nonexistent) in Bordeaux. But is it definitely a fun initiative.

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Austrian wine exports up

For the first six months 2009 Austrian wine exports were up 10% in volume and only marginally down in value (-1.8%). Austria needs be cautious in the longer run though, since the general price level has fallen and an increasing portion of the exports are in bulk rather than in bottle (especially to Germany). "For the Austrian wine industry overall, the export figures - considering the economic climate - are very positive," states Willi Klinger, general manager of Austrian Wine Marketing Board. www.austrianwine.com It is indeed much more positive numbers than in many other places.

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AREV wants to go backwards

>> Wednesday, October 28, 2009

AREV (l’Assemblée des Régions Européennes Viticoles http://www.arev.org/) is some kind of collaboration organisation between some European wine regions. In their latest press release they underline the importance of fighting the EU reform that will abolish planting rights control. Currently (and historically) the European planting rights control means that to be allowed to plant new vines you have to get planting rights, which in general is difficult to get. So if you have good demand for your wines it can be very difficult (if at all possible) to increase production by planting more vineyards. The EU reform will lead to that this control system will disappear. The principle will instead be that you can plant more vines if you want but it will be your responsibility to sell it (in the old system, if you could not sell it you would get subsidies). This new principle is something the AREV wants to fight. They also criticise the “neo-liberal” reforms that Mariann Fischer Boel has introduced in the wine sector. The AREV hopes that a future EU commissioner will be selected that has some wine background. Reading behind the lines it seems that the AREV is hoping for more subsidies and more controls, and less market orientation in the future. A pity. And in the long run it is hardly something that will benefit the European wine growers.

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700 naked people in the vineyard

To influence the upcoming climate conference inn Copenhagen Greenpeace France and Spencer Tunick organised a demonstration / installation / work of art in a vineyard in Burgundy: 700 naked people in the vineyard. The purpose was to draw attention to the effects that climate change will have on agriculture, and specifically wine growing, in France. You can now watch the video from the happening, 700 nude people in the vineyard: http://www.greenpeace.fr/tunick/ and www.treehugger.com (But one assumes that at least at that occasion all participants appreciated the unseasonably warm weather.)

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Bordeaux 2007

>> Tuesday, October 27, 2009

The Union des Grands Crus (UGC) in Bordeaux recently presented the 2007 vintage in Paris. the UGC includes not only the 1855 Grands Crus Classés but also some excellent producers inn Pomerol, Graves, Médoc and Saint Emilion. It can be quite a chore to taste a large number of young Bordeaux wines but this time it was quite pleasant. 2007 is a year with soft tanning and many of the wines are virtually ready to drink already today. The summer was cool with quite a lot of rain but the vintage was ‘saved’ by a nice autumn and harvest season. However, you had to be careful with the extraction, or risk getting too much green and bitter notes in the wine. Most producers choose to make a wine playing on the fruit. The best have done careful extractions and have avoided too much new oak. The result is a very good wine, approachable and with a very nice fruit dominated by blackcurrant notes and a touch of mint.

2007 is a vintage that restaurateurs will love. Ready to drink young, not needing long cellaring. This, no doubt, will benefit the consumer too in offering less expensive wines accessible now. “It’s good to have a vintage like 2007 every once in a while”, says Caroline Poniatowski at Château Lafon-Rochet in Saint Estèphe. Gonzague Lurton at Château Durfort-Vivens in Margaux thinks that they can age for 10 to 12 years: “2007 is not a vintage to lay down for very long”, he says. A “vin de plaisir” is how Eric d’Aramon at Château de Figeac describes it, to drink before the 2005s and 2006s: "What’s important for the 2007s is to keep the fruit and the freshness”, he says. Tristan Kressmann at Chateau Latour Martillac in Pessac-Léognan sees it as an ‘in-between’ year: Cabernet sauvignon was successful thanks to good weather in October but the merlots suffered from the humidity earlier in the season. That’s why we use two thirds cabernet in the blend which is more than what we normally have. But it gives us both elegance and fruit”. Château Lagrange in Saint Julien is another winery that used more cabernet than normally and in their case it has given the wines a good structure and, thanks to soft extractions, a fresh fruit. The wine is nice, soft and agreeable.

Antonio Flores, chef de culture at Château Malescasse in Haut-Medoc, is quite satisfied with the result. “But”, he says, “it was difficult to get sufficient ripening of the grapes. We had to do a lot of work in the vineyard and a strict sorting of the grapes when they arrived at the chai before the fermentation”.

Many chateaux choose to use less new oak than habitually in 2007. Frédéric Le Clerc at Château La Tour de By in northern Médoc used only 10%. “You had to be careful not to mask the fruit”, he says.

Some other of my favourites: Cos Laboury, Saint Estèphe, with hints of aniseed, blackcurrants and a round and soft body; Grand Puy Ducasse in Pauillac, complex with a bit of astringency, needing a few more years of bottle age; Haut-Batailly and Lynch Moussas, both in Pauillac and both with lots of finesse and a fabulous fruit.

If 2007 was a non-exceptional year for the reds it was, on the contrary, a fantastic year for the whites from Pessac-Léognans (the region which was on tasting). The white Château Latour-Martillac had exceptional balance between the aromatic side of the sauvignon blanc and sémillon’s “fat”. “We don’t use more than 1/3 now oak. There should be just a hint of oak”, says Tristan Kressmann. Some other very good whites I tasted came from La Louvière, Larrivet-Haut-Brion, Ch La France, Carbonnieux and Pape-Clément (the latter with quite a lot of new oak though!).

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BKWine Pick: Domaine Grand Lauze, Ferrals de Corbières

>> Monday, October 26, 2009

Domaine Grand Lauze, Ferrals de Corbières

This is a 22 ha big estate in Boutenac, one of the best areas in the Corbières. The vines are old. Some carignans and grenaches are over 100 years old. 80% of production is AOC and the remainder is Vin de Pays. Xavier Ledogar is the winemaker. He has a passionate interest in the soil and in his vines. You feel right away that this will be individualistic wines full of character. Which indeed they are when you taste them. Together with his younger brother Xavier, he makes white and red wines with a very distinct Languedoc stamp on them, as well as having depth and complexity. Taste for instance the La Compagnon 2007, a Corbières made from 50% mourvèdre and the rest a mix of carignan, syrah and grenache. A very nice wine with flavours of the local herbs, good fruit and freshness and lots of personality. “I try and make something special”, says Xavier, “I adapt to what nature gives me”. With excellent results.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Pick: Domaine Grand Guilhem, Fitou

Domaine Grand Guilhem, Fitou

In the mountainous part of Fitou, in the small village of Cascastel, on the border to Corbières, that’s where we find Gilles Contrepois (an exiled Parisian) at Domaine Grand Guilhem. He and his wife completely changed their lifestyle a few years back when they settled here among the vines and the aromatic garrigue shrub. They have 12 ha of vineyards in four different appellations: Fitou, Corbières, Rivesaltes and Muscat de Rivesaltes. The grow the vines organically and try and emphasise the terroir expression in the wines. Taste for example his Fitou 2007, fermented with natural yeast, made from 47% carignan grapes, and you will get a wonderfully garrigue-herbs wine, fruity, with good acidity and structure. A Fitou when it is as it should be.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 75, October 2009

The big thing for us right now is that our new book is finished. Really finished. We will have it in our hands in just a few weeks! We’re really excited.

The book tells the story of how a wine is made. It’s aimed at the wine enthusiast but can also be used as a wine course book. It’s quite unusual in that it goes into details of vine growing and winemaking – but with a text aimed at the wine lover.

The story in the book evolves around two themes: First, our innumerable conversations with winemakers, interviews, vineyard visits (we visit some 200-300 vineyards each year), wine shows etc. They are to a great extent the ones who tell the story in the book, explaining what they do and why. Secondly, we show that there are rarely any absolute truths. There are always different sides to an argument. If one winemaker says that you should absolutely have stainless steel fermentation tanks to make good wines, his neighbour will be convinced concrete is the best. The same goes for closures, oak, filtering, planting density etc etc. And both are generally right and make good wines. The interesting thing then is why you do this or that. And we explain, or let them explain, that in the book.

The book has two sections: The first half is dedicated to the vineyard: planting, vines and grape varieties, training and pruning methods, soil, climate, illnesses, manual vs. mechanical harvest etc. We also try and get to grips with this thing “terroir”. The vineyard section ends with an explanation of organic wine growing and biodynamic wines (issues that are often misunderstood!). We try and explain it in a practical, down to earth way.

The second half talks about the work in the wine cellar: The importance of sorting (and how you do it), crushing, pressing, fermentation is looked at in detail, as is the ‘upbringing’ of the wine (élevage) and the aging, the influence of oak, assemblage (blending), fining and filtering (should you or should you not?) etc. We look at what various substances you can add in the winemaking to control and influence the result. Closures have a chapter of their own (another subject that is often misunderstood): natural cork, plastic cork, screw caps, etc, as does ‘special' vinifications: sweet wine and sparkling wines. Finally we look at defects and problems, e.g. corked wine and reduction, and what types of wine you should cellar and age.

Everything is illustrated over 300 pages with many, many colour photographs (you wouldn’t expect anything else from us, would you?).

It will be hot off the presses (not the wine ones) by mid November.

Sounds interesting?

Well, hrrm, it’s published in Swedish (but the pictures are nice). We’d love to find a publisher for an English or French edition. Any suggestions?

Apart from that, the travel season is starting to calm down now. We’ve been to quite a few of Europe’s wine districts this autumn, and most have been very positive about the harvest, and some have been positively jubilant. At least for the quality. Many are suffering from smaller harvests than usual.

But what remains is the European Wine Bloggers conference next week (at least for some of us – Britt stays in Paris), something that I’m sure we’ll have reasons to come back to.

In this issue you also get a special report on the 2007 wines from Bordeaux. We recently tasted most of the Grands Crus Classés plus some others (the ones that are part of the Union des Grands Crus). In summary the reds from 2007 are delicious, accessible, with a nice fruit dominated by blackcurrant and some mint. Not an extraordinary vintage – instead they’re quite nice to drink already today! But the whites on the other hand …. are fabulous. Unfortunately, white Bordeaux seems not to be much appreciated by the consumers. Production has shrunk to only 10% of the total in Bordeaux. Let’s hope that the superb 2007s can change that.

Britt & Per

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !

More on wine:




Read all of the BKWine Brief here!

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Bordeaux exports drop

>> Monday, October 19, 2009

Exports of Bordeaux wine fell with 16% over the 12 months up to June 2009 to reach only 1.62 M hectolitre. Measured in value the drop was 14% to reach 1.43 M euro. According to CIVB/Vitisphere.

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Wine festivals in Zagreb

In the last Brief we wrote a piece on a wine event in Zagreb. It turns out that what we wrote may have led to some confusion. So here we try and be a little clearer:

- On November 27-28 there will be ”The Fourth International Zagreb Festival of Wine & Culinary Art”, more info here: www.vino.com.hr

- On February 12-13, 2010 there will be the ”Zagreb Wine Gourmet Festival” at the Arts & Crafts Museum in Zagreb. More information here: zagrebwinegourmet.com

We apologise for any misunderstanding or confusion due to our earlier post. So, if you happen to pass by Zagreb, either in November or in February, there are some fun things to do!

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Three entertaining wine videos

>> Saturday, October 17, 2009

It’s quite some while since we had the time to update BKWine TV, so here are three other entertaining wine videos:

1 - Don't go to the gym! Come and pull weed in my vineyard instead!, says Pierre Caslot at Domaine de la Chevalerie in the Loire

2 - Can you tell the difference between a 1500 euro wine and a 15 euro wine? Not evident, not even for these wine tasting experts: With English subtitles, or simply in French

3 - What does the average Frenchman think about screw caps on wine?

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Excellent harvest in the Roussillon

>> Friday, October 16, 2009

In the Roussillon the harvest is essentially finished. As in many other regions, it is estimated to be a very good vintage. The winter and spring saw a reasonable rainfall (after some dry years) and summer was dry and hot. In August they had, just like in Spain, exceptional heat and it was feared that it might block the maturation of the grapes. Not too much damage was caused though, albeit different parcels have ripened very differently. Provided the wine grower have adapted harvest dates accordingly this has not been a problem. Over all it is expected to be an excellent vintage.

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Pirate wine

Many countries across Europe are pondering anti-piracy laws. In France we have a proposal (likely to go through) called Hadopi that woul make it easy for authorities to cut the interenet connection for people suspected of downloading pirated music and films. Domaine Bérénas has launched a protest wine called Cuvée Hadopi (admittedly, not a very elegant name). It exists in both red and white. Exactly how it supports the anti-hadopi case we are not sure. Perhaps the profit from the sales goes to a defence fund for pirates? blog.vinospherus.fr

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Languedoc reading

>> Thursday, October 15, 2009

We have, as you might know, a certain weakness for the Languedoc-Roussillon. A few years back we wrote a book about the wines from the region (so far only published in Swedish unfortunately). Therefore it is with great pleasure that we recently discovered a new blog about Languedoc wines. It is written by the well known British wine book author Rosemary George, who happens to have a summer house in the region. Recommended reading here: Taste Languedoc http://tastelanguedoc.blogspot.com/ (And when we're talking about the Languedoc we also must mention our own book on the wines from that very dynamic region: The Languedoc Book)

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New wine magazine launched #2: Palate Press

An interesting initiative: Palate Press. It is an entirely internet based “magazine” that works like a collaborative project. The articles are written by a group of wine bloggers. “By harnessing the power of the internet […] we are able to have an ‘on the scene reporter’ at every wine-related event on the globe” they say in their introduction, not without a certain (unintended?) hyperbole. What their business model is is not quite clear. Advertising revenue perhaps? And on the other side paying fees to the journalists? Read it here: http://palatepress.com/

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New wine magazine launched #1: Terre de Vins

>> Wednesday, October 14, 2009

It’s not every day, with the implosion of the advertising market, that a new wine magazine is launched. To be fair, Terre de Vins has existed for quite a few years, but as a magazine solely dedicated to the wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon. With backing from the Sud-Ouest publishing group they have reshaped the magazine and made it into a national wine mag, with even international scope. So now we will be able to read about wines from all of France as well as some “foreign” wines in Terres de Vins. It uses very good quality photographic material and the articles are generally well written and easy to read. http://www.terredevins.com/

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Eight new Masters of Wine

The total has now reached 280 with the addition of eight new Masters of Wine (MW) in the latest round of diploma attribution. MW is a much coveted British diploma that shows that you know quite a few things about wine. Here are the eight new MWs:

- Susie Barrie MW, a freelance journalist, author, television and radio presenter from Winchester, UK;
- Michael Collier MW, a wine consultant based in Surrey, UK;
- Roman Horvath MW, managing director of Domäne Wachau, Austria;
- Isabelle Legeron MW, a French-born educator, event organiser and television broadcaster, living in London, UK;
- Tim Marson MW, a wine buyer for Bibendum in London, UK;
- Tuomas Meriluoto MW, managing director of WineState, an importer in Finland;
- Frank Roeder MW, founder and chief executive of VIT, a wine distribution company based in Saar, Germany;
- Mai Tjemsland MW, owner of GastroConsult, a restaurant, catering and wine club group in Oslo, Norway.

More info: www.mastersofwine.org

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Argentinean exports of malbec up

>> Tuesday, October 13, 2009

The exports from Argentina of malbec wines grew with 28% in value and 29% in volume for the first six months 2009. Nice with positivie numbers for a change these days! The biggest export markets are:

- USA, 52 % of exports
- Canada, 10 %
- United Kingdom, 5%
- Brazil, 5%
- Netherlands, Switzerland, Mexico, Sweden, Denmark and Germany, all 2 % each

Source: WineSur

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New sherry bodega launched: Urium

It is probably quite some time since someone launched a new sherry bodega. But now it has happened. The Spanish Ruiz family, headed by Alonso Ruiz has just launched Bodegas Urium. Undoubtedly a very ambitious and challenging project in times when, unfortunately, sherry is not very easy to sell on the international market. We wish them good luck and success! More info www.diariodejerez.es and jerezwine.com

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Wine buying preferences charted by Twenga

>> Monday, October 12, 2009

The price comparison search engine Twenga has analysed how their visitors search for wine in different countries. Here are some statistics:

- France: 86% of searches are for French wine
- Italy: 52% are for Italian wine, 43% for French
- Spain: 50% are for Spanish wines, 24% for French and 13% for Italian
- Germany: 40% are for French wine, 27% for Italian, and only 11% for German
- Great Britain: 64% French, 20% Italian

Some more details by country:

Top ten searches in the UK:
- Bordeaux
- Bourgogne (French Burgundy)
- Champagne
- Vallée du Rhône
- Loire
- Languedoc Roussillon
- Spanish Rioja
- French sparkling wine
- Italian Barolo
- Pinot Grigio Italy

Top ten searches in France:
- Bordeaux
- Bourgogne (French Burgundy)
- Champagne
- Vallee du Rhône
- Loire
- French sparkling wine
- Languedoc Roussillon
- Alsace
- Provence
- Jura

Top ten searches in Italy for Italian wines:
- Barolo
- Pinot Grigio
- Chianti Classico
- Amarone
- Nero d'Avola
- Syrah
- Gavi
- Marsala
- Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
- Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Top ten in Spain for Spanish wines:
- Rioja
- Albarino
- Cava
- Crianza
- Jerez
- Rueda
- Ribeira sacra
- Ribera del duero
- Penedes
- Tempranillo

Top six in Germany for German wines:
- spatburgunder
- deutscher riesling
- dornfelder
- grauburgunder
- scheurebe
- weissburgunder

Evidently French don’t drink much else than French wine, Italians and Spanish are a little more adventurous, Germans don’t seem to particularly like German wines, and English wine drinkers are very conservative. More info on the Twenga blog

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Organic wine: Millesime Bio on January 25-27

Millesime Bio is a wine show that focuses on wine producers who work organically or with biodynamic principles. It has grown substantially over recent years and is now probably the biggest event for organic wine. the next Millesime Bio will take place in Montpellier in the Languedoc on January 25-27 2010.More info: www.millesime-bio.com

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Chablis celebration on February 6-7

Saint Vincent Tournante is two days of wine tasting, good food and festivities in Chablis. This time the event takes place on the weekend of February 6-7. More info here: www.saint-vincent-milly-chablis.com

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How much (or how little) wine in Champagne?

>> Tuesday, October 06, 2009

There have been lots of discussions in champagne this year on how much the growers will be permitted to harvest. Curiously, the limit is not set until the beginning of September. Wit the crash in champagne sales the big houses wanted to limit the yield to 7500 kg/ha, compared to 13 000 kg/ha last year. Almost halving harvest volume. They fear a glut of champagne, falling prices, loss of the exclusive aura around the bubbly etc. Smaller producers were keener on keeping the yield higher, perhaps more concerned about this year’s revenue. The result was a compromise: the maximum yield was set to 9700 kg/ha. But as often is the case, this is not the whole story. On top of that, there is an allowance for 4300 kg/ha to be set aside for the “reserve” wine, theoretically used to even out years with lower yields. So, in total we then have a yield of 14,000 kg/ha. Why do they count in kg/ha instead of hectolitres/ha as everyone else in France? Don’t know. If you make the calculation 9700 kg/ha is the same as 62 hl/ha and 14,000 kg/ha represents a hefty yield of almost 100 hl/ha. Perhaps that’s why? Read more: business.timesonline.co.uk or Decanter.com. One cannot help being amazed by this blatant price fixing. It is not to improve the quality that the yields are restricted (although that might actually be a good idea). Rather, it is simply in order to artificially inflate the prices so that the champagne becomes more expensive to the consumers and wine lovers than what it would need to be. It would perhaps be a nice case for the EU competition and open market authorities to put their teeth in?

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Rich and famous and winemakers

”How do you make a small fortune from wine? – You start with a big fortune.” So goes the story. Many rich people (though not always famous) like the thought of owning a vineyard. Apparently. Chateau Latour, as an example, is owned by François Pinault, one of France’s richest person who also own a telecom operator, TV channels, construction companies etc. More well known (at least in wine circles) is Bernard Arnault who (part-)owns Chateau Cheval Blanc and Yquem. Challenges, a French business magazine (obvious from it’s name, isn’t it?), recently listed the top French fortunes cum - “winemakers”. Read the details on the blog of Cesar Compadre/Sud-Ouest

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The difference between winemaking in Bordeaux and Burgundy

>> Monday, October 05, 2009

There are very few vignerons who own vineyards both in Bordeaux and in Burgundy. One of the happy few is Eduard Labruyère who owns Domaine Jacques Pieur in Burgundy and Chateau Rouget in Pomerol. Jane Anson has interviewed him on his experiences from the two regions. ”Burgundy is more about feeling that you should do things a certain way, while in Bordeaux you know that you have to do it because the university researchers have told you.” The whole article is very interesting and can be found on Jane Anson's blog The New Bordeaux

PS: What is the point with this photo? Any idea?

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A wine cinematographer disappears: Vininews

At least figuratively speaking. Vininews was a site that published video interviews and reportage from vineyards and wine regions on their site Vininews. But the latest message from them said that they are closing down the site. A great pity. One wonders why. Too ambitious? Anyway, one can find some consolation in the (rather more amateurish) wine videos on BKWine TV.

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Photographing wine bottles

While researching some other things I stumbled over an old post by Spittoon.biz: How To Photograph Wine Bottles - 10 tips. Considering the quality of the bottle shots you sometimes see in blogs this is definitely a post that some bloggers could benefit from reading.

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The blog has moved. Here is the new location: BKWine Magazine Blog.

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