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Namibia – the next wine country?

>> Friday, November 30, 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifA Britsh born business man has planted a vineyard in Namibia, just on the border to the desert. Allan Walkden-Davis so far only makes 3500 bottles, made from Shiraz and Merlot. Five sources contributes to make the vineyard fertile although it is virtually in the desert. Namib Red 2004 is described as "absolutely stunning, amazing wine, with nice dark berries, slight acidity, plums, and just a little bit of that peppery Italian leather" by the South African wine consultant Micael Oliver. Stunning, yes we can believe that. telegraph.co.uk

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Antinori launches Napa wine and expands with Stag’s Leap

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifPiero Antinori, head of the famous Tuscan Antinori wine family has presented the first vintage of his new wine from Napa Valley. The winery is called Antica Napa Valley and the wines are a 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon and a 2006 Chardonnay. The wine is made in collaboration with St Michelle Wine Estates who is also a partner in Antinori’s acquisition of the legendary Sag’s Leap Wine Cellars winesandvines.com

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Swedish Hill pioneers new hybrids?

>> Thursday, November 29, 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifMelody, Corot Noir, Valvin Muscat are perhaps not the best known grape varieties with wine lovers. They are all “hybrids”, i.e. crossings that are not the pure European Vitis Vinifera. Such hybrids can be much more resistant to diseases and to cold weather but have a reputation to produce wines that are not necessarily very tasty. Perhaps this is going to change. In the Finger Lakes district (cold and not too suited to Vinifera) in northern New York Cornell University is carrying out research to improve the hybrid varieties and they have come up with some interesting results. Swedish Hill Vineyards is one of the local wineries that are trying out many hybrid varieties with (we are told) good result. cornellsun.com

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Australia top-seller in Sweden

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifThe ranking of the most popular wine countries at the Swedish monopoly retail chain Systembolaget (September 2007) is as follows. Australia has grown with 25% mainly due to a few successful launches of bag-in-box and tetra wines. (Percentages indicate market share)

1. Australia 17.3%
2. South Africa 16.1%
3. Italy 15.5%
4. Spain 14.6%
5. France 9.2%
6. Chile 7.2%
7. USA 5.7%
8. Germany 4.7%
9. Hungary 3.1%
10. Argentina 2.2%

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Brazil

>> Tuesday, November 20, 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif Some parts of Brazil are certainly tropical but it is a big country. In the colder south, near the border to Uruguay, the climate is well suited to wine growing. We visited the vineyards in this area this last summer (winter, that is, on location) and were much impressed by the quality. Much of the wine produced is sparkling, either with a second fermentation in the bottle or in tank. Second fermentation in tank is called the ‘charmat method’ and was introduced in Brazil in the 1950s by the Frenchman Georges Aubert. Some charmat wines are even made with an extended aging in tank (on the lees) which gives added complexity and toastiness. One example is the Domaine Chandon (yes, the name is familiar!), who has specialised in charmat wines. Moscatel Espumante is an important product and it is often made with grapes coming from Vale do São Fransisco, with tropical climate almost at the equator. They even get two harvests per year here! The Italian Moscato Bianco is the main grape but they also grow Shiraz. Moscatel Espumante is made in the same way as the Italian wines from Asti. The wine style was introduced by Martini Rossi in the 70s. The wines work well as a slightly sweet aperitif, low in alcohol with flowery and tutti-frutti aromas. Perhaps a future low-alcohol fad?

The bulk of Brazilian wine production is very simple wines made from American varieties and only sold locally. Wine that we need not spend many words on. But some ambitious producers make wines from Vinifera varieties and have replanting programs under way. One example is the Pizzato brothers (on brother is getting some international experience at Herdade Espoao in Alentejo in Portugal). They have specialised in Merlot. Pizzato is a small producer in Brazilian terms, having no more than 26 hectares. The family emigrated from Veneto in Italy in the 1880s and ended up in the Vale dos Vinhedos on the border to Uruguay. The Italian root in the Vale do Vinhedos is very obvious: you can eat superb pasta, many people speak Italian, there are even many signs in Italian. Some of the larger producers that are starting to become know internationally are Miolo, Salton and Casa Valduga.

Read more about Brazilian wines on www.winesfrombrazil.com

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Spain’s first ice wine!

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifIcewine is made by picking the grapes in the winter, when temperatures are below minus seven. It’s not exactly something that one connects with Spain (not least with ‘global warming’). Bodega Vidal Soblechero de la Seca in Valladolid, DO Rueda, is nevertheless the first Spanish winery to make an ice wine!

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Nordic sommelier champion: Thilde Maarbjerg from Denmark

>> Monday, November 19, 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifThilde Maarbjerg from the Kong Hans restaurant in Copenhagen won the title in the Nordic Sommelier Championship in Helsinki. It is the third year in a row that Denmark wins the title. This year it was a very feminine team of professionals: second place went to Susanne Berglund-Kranz (Sweden) and third place to Pia Peltoperä (Finland). Congratulations!

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54% market share for the Swedish monopoly

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifSystembolaget, the Swedish retail monopoly, announced in its latest newsletter that their market share in Sweden is growing (of course, ‘monopoly’ does not quite mean monopoly). Systembolaget now provides 54% of all alcohol that Swedes consume, up from a low of 48% in 2004. The market share of spirits was 39% (up from 36%). In other words, 61% of all spirit consumed in Sweden does not come from Systembolaget. The market share for wine is 74%. It must be a challenge being tasked with being the tool for moderating Swede’s consumption when half of the consumption come from other sources.

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The Swedish monopoly grows sales too

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifThe Systembolaget increased sales from January to October with 5.1% measured in ‘pure alcohol’. Wine sales grew with 5.4%. Anitra Steen, Chief Executive, commented: “growing household income and a decrease in travellers’ carrying alcohol with them from abroad is probably the cause”. She must feel slightly divided in the interpretation of the results – growing sales and increasing market share normally being a positive thing for a CEO but at the same time being tasked with limiting the consumption of alcohol in Sweden. Oh, the joys of a monopoly with political objectives…

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The state vodka company grows its sales

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifV&S Vin & Sprit Group, the state owned company that primarily makes Absolut vodka, announced in its third quarter figures that sales volumes were up 9% to 7 million 9-litre cases, operating profits grew with 23% to 677 million SEK and profit after tax was 423 M SEK (+29%). Positive numbers that may well help the planned sale of the company.

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New economic perspective on gastronomy and wine

a0617-221-2102The Association of Wine Economists have joined together with the Society of Quantitative Gastronomy (yes, they both exist!) to publish the Journal of Wine Economics with a new profile. Once every year they will publish a special issue focussed on gastronomy. In the next June issue they will for example have an article on “is breakfast free when it is included in the price?”. The AWE is a scientifically oriented journal that deals with economic issues around wine, wine production and w http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifine markets. It is of course not free and you can subscribe (or join) on their site: http://www.wine-economics.org/ (Photo: oxymoron. Just like 'congressional ethics', or 'computer science': OxymoronList)

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”Le Grand Tasting” in Paris 30 November to 1 December

>> Saturday, November 17, 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif“Le Grand Tasting” (in bizarre Frenglish) is the name of another wine fair in Paris. They present a more modest, but still large, number of more specifically quality oriented producers. But all is of course a matter of taste. This wine fair is organised by two ex-Revue des Vin de France journalists, Michel Bettane and Thierry Dessauve, which is a promising basis for an interesting selection of exhibitors. Why not spend a few days in Paris and go to both events? With some time for Christmas shopping in-between! www.grandtasting.com

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Spitting competition (!) at the Paris wine fair on November 22-26

ah26-250-5025We’re not quite sure how it will be judged (length? precision? beauty? originalty?...) but at the annual Salon des Vignerons Indépendants in Paris (a huge event with 1000 exhibitors) they will have a spitting competition whose winner will get the “Grand Prix du Cracheur d’Or”. (The competition is actually a devious way to make visitors understand the importance of spitting when tasting!). The Salon will take place at Porte de Versailles in Paris on November 22-26 and the c http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifompetition is on November 23 at 16.00. vigneron-independant.com

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Whisky from Öland

The image “http://www.wannborga.nu/updater/arkiv/11/00000000111_188x250.jpg” cannot be displayed, because it contains errors.As opposed to many other internationally famous spirits (Calvados, Cognac,...) whisky does not have a regionally protected name. You can make whisky anywhere (e.g. in Japan, or on Ireland). Wannborga Distillery & Vineyard and Ölands Farm Brewery have joined together in a project to make whisky on the Swedish island of Öland in the Baltic sea. There is at this time no whisky to taste, but we have tasted their grappa, “calvados”, and “cognac”. Interested whisky fans are invited to invest in the future production – perhaps we can call it “whisky primeur” http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif– to get preferential access once the product is ready. Wannborga is one of three Swedish vineyards on the island of Öland. www.wannborga.nu

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New edition of the most classic Bordeaux book

The first edition of “Bordeaux et ses Vin” (Bordeaux and its wines) was published in 1850. It is an extensive collection of (almost) all the properties in Bordeaux. It is often called ”Cocks & Feret” after the original publisher. The 18th extended and revised edition has just been published. www.vinomedia-publishing.com

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Château La Pointe and Château Carignan sold

040918-136-3677Château La Pointe, a Pomerol property with 25 ha, has been sold for an estimated 32-35 million euro to the insurance company Generali. They already own Ch La France in the region. Chateau Carignan has been sold for 11 M euro (it’s in the Premières Côtes de Bordeaux) to an American based wine merchant http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifcalled Andy Lench. decanter.com

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New appellation: Coteaux du Languedoc Pézenas

>> Friday, November 16, 2007

bf20-412-1238The new appellation Coteaux du Languedoc, with the suffix Pézenas (which is a town in the region) is a red wine and should be made from Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsaut. Try follow this if you can: Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah must make up at least 70%. No single one the varieties Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah may make up more than 75%. Mourvedre and Syrah must be included, singly or together, to at least 20%. If Carignan is included in the mix then Grenache must also be included with at least 20%. Repeat please! In summary, and simplified, one http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif can perhaps say that Coteaux du Languedoc Pézenas is made primarily from Grenache, Mourvedre and Syrah, may have some addition of Carignan and Cinsaut, and cannot by a single variety wine. The yield (“rendement de base”) is limited to 45 hl/ha.

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Anselme Selosse makes Italian sparkling wine

a0615-213-1384Anselme Selosse is one of the most respected independent wine makers in Champagne. Together with Azienda Feudi di San Gregorio near Naples he has just launched an Italian sparkling wine, from a region that otherwise is mostly known for its still wines. The wine is called Le Dubl Greco and is made from the grape Greco di Tufo. It is aged 36 months ‘sur lie’ (on its lees). They also produce a wine called Falanghina, which as less ageing, and a rosé called Dubl Rosato di Aglianico. www.vinimarket.com

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Warning for pregnant women

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifWell, its not the pregnant women who are dangerous of course, but drinking wine while you are pregnant. At least according to the warning texts (or alternatively a graphically illustrative symbol) that are now compulsory on wine bottles in France. A new French law for this was approved on October 2.

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German harvest: big volume, excellent quality

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifA sigh of relief can also be heard in Germany after this year’s harvest. they had an early flowering and good weather during the harvest (but what happened in between was perhaps not so great). This led to excellently ripe grapes in all wine regions in Germany. The volume is estimated to 11 million hl, which is 8% over the average. www.wine-business-international.com

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Champagne extends its AOC limits

>> Thursday, November 15, 2007

a0615-213-1363The Champagne region has approved 40 new communes as (potential) producers of champagne. Today, the Champagne region (the appellation) covers some 32500 ha and virtually all of it is already planted with wine. A project has already been running for a few year to extend the limits of the appellation in order to satisfy the growing demand. (They have already raised the limit for maximum yield to around 100 hl/ha in the same spirit.) Approving the 40 new communes is only a first step. http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifNext phase is to evaluate which specific land plots will be included in the appellation. That is expected not to be finalised until 2017. One can imagine the difficulties in the project. One hectare of prime AOC land can be worth 1 million euro whereas a hectare of plain agricultural land has a more modest price tag…

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Seven new Masters of Wine

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif As we noted in the last Brief, Sweden now has it’s first MW, the highly respected British wine diploma. At the same time, six other candidates passed the tests and can now add the magic initials after their names: Craig Dumond, partner in Garland Wines in Australia, David Le Mire, marketing consultant and wine educator in Australia, Peter Mitchell, wine merchant at Laytons in England, Pierpaolo Petrassi, product manager at Tesco in England, Barbara Philip, wine educator and the first female Canadian MW, and Greg Sherwood of wine merchant Hanford Wines in England. A big congratulation!

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Denmark gets its first ”AOC”

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifPerhaps a slight exaggeration - Denmark has had approved four regional denominations for its wines. According to European regulations a “new” wine district must first prove its capability of producing quality wines before getting the right to use a geographically specific denomination (initially it is simply “table wine”). Denmark has now graduated from “table wine” to four regional denominations: Jutland, Fyn, Sjaelland and Bornholm. There are 26 registered wine producers sharing a grand total of 20 hectares. So one hopes that this promotion won’t cause a surge in demand, because there aren’t that much wine to go round… www.wine-business-international.com

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Yquem for 4.5 million dollars

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifNils Stormby, the Swedish wine collector, recently sold most of his world famous Chateau d’Yquem collection at Zachy’s auction house in New York. The sale netted a very decent 4.5 million dollars.

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Good quality but small volume in Muscadet

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifIn Muscadet this year’s harvest promises to yield very good quality but limited volumes. An early and warm spring kick-started the vegetation period. But a cold and humid summer caused problems with the flowering (limiting the quantity) and also led to some problems with rot (mildiou). But from the end of August the weather returned to sunny and warm and harvest began on September 10. Thanks to the very nice autumn the grapes were in good quality with good ripeness, but not very abundant.

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BKWine Tip: Villa Spicy

>> Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Villa Spicy, Paris 8e

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif Just off Les Champs-Elysées, on the avenue F Roosevelt, you find this pleasant restaurant with excellent food with a certain Provençal touch. It used to be called (simply) Spicy but have now (why?) changed name to Villa Spicy. Perhaps because of a total (successful) renovation – the atmosphere is now relaxed and cosy, service is friendly. They have a good-value lunch menu for 20 euro (two courses, e.g. with a superb pumpkin soup with chestnut crème, a very popular French autumn dish). Starters go for 9-14 euro, main courses are 14-28 euro. They also have a fixed price menu in the evening for 28 euro. A small (as often in French restaurants) selection of wines by the glass.

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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BKWine Tip: Domaine des Grécaux, Languedoc

Domaine des Grécaux, Languedoc
Isabelle and Alain Caujolle-Gazet

bf17-403-0381Alain and Isabelle Caujolle-Gazet settled to make wine in Montpeyroux in Languedoc in 1998. Today they have 11 hectares, 7 of which are on very poor soil (and thus good for wine growing) on the Montpeyroux plateau and this is the source of their cuvée Héméra. This is an excellent example of this peculiar Montpeyroux terroir, says Alain. Héméra is made from 75% Syrah and 25% Grenache. The style is densely concentrated with typical aromas of Syrah – charcuteri, http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gif spices and dark berries. Try it, or any other of the Grécaux wines, if you can find it!

Click here for address and more recommendations.

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Welcome to the BKWine Brief nr 52, November 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifOne of the things we really enjoy is looking for and discovering new wines. Drinking a very good Bordeaux or Burgundy (just to mention those two as examples) can be very satisfying but it is not necessarily much of an achievement – provided you have enough money to pay for these wines. It can be some added satisfaction if you have looked hard for the wine or if you think that you have found something that is yet to become famous – excellent wines at reasonable value. That is one of the reasons why it was such fun to write our new (our first!) book on the Languedoc wine region. It’s a region where you can find many good producers without paying a fortune. But you have to know where to look. So you should read our book as a guide. Unfortunately, it is so far only available in Swedish. (If you have an uncle who’s a book publisher please let us know! We’re looking for one. More on our book here.) The same thing can be said about many other wine districts, for example Portugal. We’ve just had two new books on Portuguese wines land in the mailbox, which we hope will be good guides to discover this “revived” wine country. (We will review them in the next Brief. They came too late for this one.)

But in a way, it is the same thing with the two “classics” I mentioned at the beginning. Bordeaux and Burgundy is easy if you can splash out money (and it doesn’t take much of a wine adventurer to do it). But if you go a bit beyond the obvious choices it becomes more exciting, say the Premières Côtes in Bordeaux or smaller family growers in Burgundy. That’s where you can find really interesting gems, sometimes a bit rough at the edges, but that gives you the extra satisfaction of experiencing something a little bit different.

That’s what we will try and show you on our early summer tour to “Three Classic French Wine Regions” to Champagne, Chablis and Burgundy. If you are only interested in Krug, DRC, Comte Vogüé and the likes, don’t bother with this tour. But if you are curious to discover some family Champagne growers and some smaller properties (making outstanding wines!) in Chablis and Burgundy, we think you should consider it… More info here.

Talking about wine tours – Next season’s first tour, “Truffles, Wine, Foie Gras and Duck” in Perigord is already getting quite a few registrations, so hurry up if you are interested, before it’s full! More info here.

And if we should also be a little bit socially conscious in these times of equitable trade and global warming (and public transport strikes in Paris! Come here if you want to know how it feels to be held hostage…) etc etc, to be honest the classed growths generally don’t need your money. They manage very well as it is, thank you. But many of the small growers are happy for every single customer they get, so why not spend your money with those who really need it and who need to work hard for a living? Which is certainly the case for many smaller growers or family producers.

In this Brief you’ll also have the opportunity to discover some really unusual wines: from Brazil, from Denmark and from Namibia… Britt PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !

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