World Wine Statistics: World wine consumption down, but exports up

Consumption of wine in 2008 shrunk with 2 million hl, but the world wine market is becoming increasingly global. 37% of all wine produced were exported, i.e. were drunk in another country than where it was made. That’s up from 18% in the early 80s. World wine consumption is estimated to have reached 242,.9 Mhl in 2008, which is 2 Mhl less than in 2007. Ironically, it is primarily the big wine producing countries that have seen the consumption fall. In the “EU-15” people drank 2.2 Mhl less. It’s the first time in several years that wine consumption falls. (Source: OIV)

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The Systembolaget profit = 833 million SEK

The net profit for 2008 for Systembolaget AB, the Swedish retail alcohol monopoly, reached 833 M SEK (76 M euro). Total turnover increased from 20.2 M SEK to 21.3 M SEK and sales measured in volume pure alcohol grew with 2.7%. The CEO, Anitra Steen, is keen to point out the benefits of having a monopoly that is not profit motivated. Not motivated? Decent enough anyway.

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2.3 million euros for indoctrination and propaganda

No, we're not talking about the French anti-wine campaigns. 2.3 million euro (25 M SEK to be precise) is the budget that the Swedish retail monopoly Systembolaget spends on advertising in a year, according to numbers released at their AGM recently. But don’t get it wrong, they are not making publicity for wine or spirits. The “advertising” they do is primarily telling the Swedish people how lucky they are to have the Systembolaget monopoly, how wonderful a job they do in making sure Swedes have a muuuch better wine selection than in countries without a monopoly etc etc. The CEO Anitra Steen says: “It is important to all the time talk about the mission we have because if people are to continue supporting the monopoly they have to know why we have a retail monopoly, how it works, and what the effects of it are, and that’s what we talk about in our campaigns”. Every year they make a survey to gauge the support. In the latest one they have just over 60% support for the monopoly, up from less than 50% a few years ago. Is it very remarkable when they spend 2.3 million euro each year on telling people how wonderful they are?

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Are wine bloggers journalist? Do wine bloggers exist in the real world?

Are you a journalist if you blog about wine? That’s the question that Gabriella Opaz poses. She’s member of the British Circle of Wine Writers, CWW (just like us at BKWine). The reason is that the chairman of the CWW, Julie Arkell, has said in a letter to Off License News (OLN, a UK trade paper) that the CWW do not accept memberships of bloggers, if blogging is their only published activity. Gabriella is a member of the CWW and writes only on Catavino.net, a blog, sort of. Perhaps somewhat of a storm in a tea cup – if you are a “communicator” with a certain level of professionalism then what does the medium matter? Read more on wineblogger.info (On the picture: David Sifry, CEO of Technorati)

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Barolo and its cru all’italiana

Many Barolo producers have a tradition of indicating a specific vineyard on the bottle. In Italy this is called Cru all’Italiana or singolo vigneto. However, this is in no way regulated by laws or regulations. This is about to change if the regional committee for DOCG Barolo has its way. The intention is to delimit and define the vineyards (borders, names, etc) that can be indicated on the label. If, that is, the Italian parliament gives it green light to the plan. Then, the only thing that remains is to agree on the details locally… www.italiaatavola.net

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Lafite buys vineyard in China

Lafite (Domaines Baron Rothschild) has bought a vineyard in the Shangdong province in China, in Penglai. They will initially plant 25 hectares of vines. The investment is done in collaboration with the Chinese group CITIC. Read more: newbordeaux.blog.co.uk

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New DOC in Piedmont: Alba

The regional regulators in Piedmont have approved a new DOC, adding to the 44 already present. To qualify for the new DOC Alba the wine has to contain at least 70 % nebbiolo and 15 % barbera, the remaining being made up of other local varieties. The reasons for creating yet another DOC are, it is said, commercial. The city of Alba is internationally well known and will perhaps attract new buyers… www.italiaatavola.net

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The best chardonnay wines

The competition Chardonnay du Monde has ranked the top chardonnay wines among the 923 competing entries from 37 countries. One wine was awarded Great Gold medal: Champagne Mandois 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004, but 65 were given Gold. You can find the full results here www.chardonnay-du-monde.com

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Falling Bordeaux prices?

It is still too early to say what will happen to the Bordeaux prices. The presentation phase of the primeur campaign (wines from 2008) is now over and we are moving to the “price game”. Up? Stable? Down? We will know in the coming days and weeks. The UK market (most loudly) has clamoured for lower prices. Among the very first (perhaps the only one so far) to “release” its price for the 2008s is Chateau l’Angélus, owned by the business man Hubert de Boüard. He has launched his wine at 50 euro, compared to 85 euro for the 2007 – down by 40%. de Boüard says that his primary markets are in a crisis and that the 2008 is released at the same price as the 2004. One can then do the reverse calculation and note that between 2004 and 2007 Angélus raised their prices with 70%! So there is perhaps some margin for falling prices. Not many suppliers get a 70% price increase in three years. bordeauxwinenews.blogsudouest.com

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Garage wine show in Copenhagen

Each year Dansk VinCenter organises the Garage Wine Fair in Copenhagen. This year they have announced the date to be 23 August at 11.00 to 16.00. There will be many wines to taste and good food on offer. Numerous importers and producers will be represented. More info: www.garagevin.com

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Denmark’s first commercial vineyard celebrates 10 year anniversary

In 1999 a few crazy souls started Dansk VinCenter. They planted 10,000 vines and thus became the first commercial vineyard in Denmark. In 2003 they launched their first wine with the odd name Nordlund (it’s a bit like calling a wine Smith or Jones in English). So this year they celebrate their 10th anniversary. Happy birthday! More info: www.vincenter.dk

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Which grape variety is the most planted in France?

What is your guess? Cabernet? Syrah? Ugni blanc? Or something else? No, none of those. For most of the 20th century it was carignan, but half of that acreage has been up-rooted, primarily in the Languedoc region. So, the answer is: merlot.
Here’s the latest statistics:....

This blog post is now available on our NEW BLOG LOCATION: France's most planted grape varieties on The NEW BKWine Blog on BKWine Magazine. Please remember to change your bookmark and RSS feed.

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BKWine TV: Domaine du Sang des Cailloux, Rhône

We’ve published a new interview on BKWine TV: The winemaker Serge Férigoule at Domaine du sang des Cailloux in the southern Rhône Valley. the vineyards are in Vacqueyras, near Courthezon. He makes primarily two cuvees, a Cuvée Classique that he names after his three daughters (Doucinelle, Florette, or Azalais) and a cuvee vieilles vignes made from old vines. Watch the video with the winemaker at domaine du Sang des Cailloux on BKWine TV.

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It’s spring. Can you hear the twittering?

“Social media” is a somewhat vague term, but one has to try and understand it. “Twitter” is a web service that became well known much thanks to the American presidential election. Obama twittered. I’m not sure if Mc Cain (was that his name?) twittered. Now BKWine too twitters. To twitter is to send short messages, not more than 140 characters. A bit like SMS, or texting on the phone. The difference is that anyone (or more precisely, any follower) can read the message. So now we’re twittering to our heart’s delight… About what we’re drinking for dinner. Where we’re travelling. What we’re writing about just now. And so on. If by any chance you’d be interested in that. And perhaps one day we’ll figure out what it’s good for. If you want to listen to our twittering we’re here: http://twitter.com/bkwineper. And you do have to try and figure it out, don’t you?

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Constellation unloads six wineries for $234 million

Constellation, one of the worlds biggest wine producers, has sold six vineyards and eight brands for $234 million. the buyer is a new venture capital backed company called Ascentia that is run by Peter Ekman, who has previously been with e.g. Wine.com. Ekman is of Swedish origin but has lived in California for several years. Which wineries and brands that are included is not disclosed, but we are led to believe that it is the Beam Wine Estates that was acquired by Constellation in 2007 for $885 million. Nice discount.

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Over dose of wine critic

A recent phenomenon in the (primarily) American world of wine critics is Gary Vaynerchuk. He owns and used to run a wine retailing business but has now moved on to building a brand around himself on video. His videos have become immensely popular and are watched by thousands of people… All follow the same format: Gary Vee (as he calls himself) talks to the camera and tastes a handful of wines, sometimes together with a guest taster. The clips are undeniably original and not to everyone’s taste. That they have such an immense following is somewhat of a mystery. If you have never seen one of his videos this is a good introduction, a bit like an amarone Recioto of Vaynerchuk, or an OD of wine criticism: www.boozemonkey.com Difficult not to laugh.

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American Wine Bloggers’ Conference

If instead you are in North America you can attend the American Wine Bloggers’ Conference. It takes place on July 24-26 in Napa and Sonoma. More about this here: http://winebloggersconference.org/america/

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European Wine Bloggers’ Conference in Lisbon in October

For the second year in a row there will be a big meeting for all European wine bloggers, this time based in Lisbon. The conference is above all an occasion to meet many other wine bloggers: wine enthusiasts, journalists, blogging winemakers, marketers and anyone else who’s interested in wine blogging. And there will be plenty of opportunities to taste many exciting Portuguese wines. The EWBC takes place in Lisbon on October 30 to November 1. And it’s virtually free for wine bloggers! More info http://winebloggersconference.org/europe/ (And for twitterers: #EWBC )

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BKWine Travel Stories: Bordeaux day 4

Chateau Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac

We’ve not yet gone across the river to the right bank, Rive Droite, so this morning we make the short trip over the Dordogne up to Saint Emilion: Chateau Grand Barrail Lamarzelle Figeac, not far from Figeac itself (and in the “secteur” in Saint Emilion called Figeac). Romuald Hebrard the winemaker takes us out into the vineyard to explain about the growth of the vine at this time of spring. We look at training methods, why the vines are pruned at a certain height, buds and counter-buds (or whatever they might be called, les contre-bourgeons)... In the wine cellar they have a very unusual and interesting destalking and sorting machine, a type of egrappoir that at the same time destalks and is capable of separating riper gripes from less ripe ones. Impressive technology. Also the barrel cellar is impressive, in a similar circular design as Lafite had, albeit a bit more modest in size. And you have to take care to not be showered by the spittoon sprinklers! The winery also has a shop where you can of course by the wines from the chateau, but also from quite a few other Bordeaux chateau. Well placed on the road leading to Saint Emilion.

Chateau Moulin du Cadet

We’re not quite yet getting hungry but lunch is approaching so we head towards our next (and lunch) appointment, Chateau Moulin du Cadet in the “Secteur Cadet” just north of the small town of St Emilion. Moulin du Cadet is run by Pierre Blois since some years back (once upon a time it was bought by his father-in-law). It is one of only a handful of properties in the whole of the Bordeaux region that is run according to biodynamic principles. (The neighbour is another one, Chateau Fonroque, run by Pierre’s brother-in-law, Alain Moueix.) Pierre Blois says that one of the effects of working biodynamically is that the wines become much more mineral. So what does ‘mineral’ mean? Well, he says, it’s a slightly salty taste, in particularly in the after-taste. He also makes some other descriptions: it’s as if you tasted a stone (mineral), or as if you had butterflies in the mouth (in the way that it has no heaviness, but much elegance and delicate flavours), or, as the French sometimes say, it’s “droit”, i.e. “straight” (this is in contrast to being round, soft of fat); sometimes also “aerien” (“airy”), in contrast to “terrien” (“earthbound”, rather than earthy). Perhaps not very easy to understand when one reads it but quite good descriptions when you have the wine in the mouth and can feel it. And there is often, when tasting bio-dynamic wines, a certain clarity and crispness in the mouth. If it is due to bio-dynamics, or if it is simply due to very good winemaking is anyone’s guess. We have the opportunity to taste Pierre’s wine over lunch, a harvest workers’ lunch (although it’s springtime) in the barrel aging cellar, both his Chateau Moulin du Cadet and his other label Chateau Cadet Fontpierre. Probably the best grilled entrecote we’ve ever had! Must remember to get the name of his butcher!

Saint Emilion

You just have to stop for a walk in Saint Emilion itself, if you’re nearby, so we do. It’s a wonderful town or village (can’t quite decide if it’s a small town or a big village) with medieval streets. A must see. (But perhaps not in peak tourism season since it’s one of the main French tourist attractions, on the Unesco list of World Heritage sites. And when you’re there you must try the ‘macarons de Saint Emilion’, small, soft and succulent almond biscuits. Delicious. And maybe buy a souvenir merlot wine that are on sale in many of the wine shops in the village?

Bordeaux city

Time to head back to Bordeaux city and have a night in town!

We’ve certainly been ‘gatés’ by all the winemakers and by the weather this time round!

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BKWine Travel Stories: Bordeaux day 3

Lestrille

Starting the day (third day in Bordeaux) at Chateau Lestrille - it's a smallish property in the Entre Deux Mers run by the young and talanted vigneronne Estelle Roumage. It's a family property since a few generations. Today they make a range of wines of all colours, for example a quite substantial Bordaux Clairet, more colourful and substantial than many a red Alsace. The make a few different red cuvees, one of which they even age partially in American oak (not much though, perhaps some 10% so it's in no way a major influence on the character. Certainly a good source for moderately priced Bordeaux wines. It will be interesting to follow the development of Estelle's winemaking in the future.

La Garde

Second stop on today's itinerary: Chateau La Garde a property in the Pessac Leognan region, not one of the best known, but one that has undeergone lots of changes recently. It was bought some years ago by Dourthe (the Bordeaux negociant) and they have made substantial renovations and investments. E.g. a large part of the vineyard has had to be replanted. The latest new planting is experimental, with an exceptionally high planting density: 13500 vines per hectare. They also make a small quantity of white that is a 50/50 blend between sauvignon blanc and sauvignon gris. (Sauvignon gris is one of those varieties that it is a pity that we don't see more of!) And to conclude the visit a splendid lunch with La Garde's second wine La Terrasse, as well as le grand vin. Cote de Boeuf from Blonde d'Aquitaine beef and other nice things...

Yquem

Rain invades southern Bordeaux during lunch and it makes for a gloomy entrance to Chateau Yquem, if that is possible. In spite of the drizzle Sandrine Garbay, Yquems chief winemaker takes us out into the vineyards to look at the budding wines. A new discovery: at Yquem as well as many other Sauternes chateaux, they use goble pruning! Not straight forward gobelet, but a variant that is called gobelet pallisse', so, gobelet trained on a wire. Looks a bit like a chunky cordon actually. A visit to their magnificent (theatrical) cellar is followed by a tasting. As soon as the Yquem is poured in the glasses the sun emerges from behind the clouds. And not figuratively speaking but literally.

Pey Latour and Essence de Dourthe

Getting back to night camp at Pey Latour takes us through some of the pretty landscape in the Entre-deux-Mers. It's a much prettier region than Medoc, much greener, more undulating, but of course less magnificent chateau, but they do have quite a few of their own.

Dinner at Pey Latour is accompanied by a tasting of a range of the Dourte wines, and we finish with the Essence de Dourthe. It's an interesting concept that Dourthe first made in 2000: it's a blend of the very best wine from each of their chateaux. Each of the Chateau that they run (six or seven) have two of their best hectares set aside as an Essence candidate and each year they make a selection of the very best barrels from the chateaux and make a blend of it. So in a way it is the top of the top of what Dourthe can do, trying to compete with the very top wines in the world. Appellation Bordeaux of course, since it's a mix of Medoc, Graves, St Emilion etc. Certainly one of the most expensive AOC Bordeaux around, in the range of 85 euros. But indeed an outstandingly good wine.

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