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BKWine Pick: Domaine de Triennes

>> Sunday, July 08, 2007

Domaine de Triennes, Provence

bc25-355-5519Triennes is a property that has attracted quite a lot of attention lately although it carries the quite modest appellation of Vin de Pays du Var. But you should not be fooled by the humble origin – the wines are excellent and interesting and we would be surprised if they were not. The winery was founded by two Burgundy legends: Aubert de Villaine (Domaine de la Romanée Conti), Jacques Seysses (Domaine Dujac in Morey St Denis), together with Michel Macaux. In 1990 they bought a rather run-down property between Aix-en-Provence and bc25-355-5563Brignoles and gave it the name Triennes, after the name used for a roman wine feast (and perhaps the fact that they were three partners?). They did some replanting with Chardonnay on soil that was similar to Burgundy, Syrah on soil that was more iron and clay rich, and Merlot on a flat but well drained plot that reminded them of St Emilion. Domaine de Triennes now makes very good wines at very affordable prices – the powerful and well structured Cuvée Sainte Auguste, http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifmade from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, Les Auréliens from Syrah and Cabernet, and the white Sainte Fleure from Viognier, a full-bodied wine with a fresh acidity and notes of ripe apricot and flowers.

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BKWine Pick: Château Pech Latt

>> Saturday, July 07, 2007

Château Pech Latt, Philippe Mathias, Corbières

bp06-532-3253A narrow road from the village Lagrasse in the Corbières leads to Chateau Pech Latt, owned by the Burgundy house Louis Max. The winery and vineyard is manage by the enthusiastic oenolog Philippe Mathias. It’s a big vineyard – 120 ha, 100 of which are planted with vines – all in a single plot, and without any close neighbours. “An advantage”, says Philippe “when you want to run the vineyard organically”, which they do since 1991. 90% of the production goes on export. “Selling Languedoc wines in France is difficult. The French ’drink the label’” Philippe explains, using the expression “buveurs d’etiquettes” – all the worse for the French we can only say. bp06-532-3271Balance is a central theme for Philippe, balance in the vineyard, between different plants and animals, and balance in the wine cellar. Pech Latt Cuvée Tradition make up 85% of the production, made from 50% Carignan and some Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. A wine with distinct typicity, deep colour and powerful bouquet, a good structure with quite a healthy dose of ripe tannins and notes of the local garrigue herbs. Other cuvées: Vieille Vignes, dominated by Carignan, and Cuvée Alix that has been aged 16 months in wood. Excellent and good value http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifwines.

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BKWine Brief nr 48, July 2007

>> Friday, July 06, 2007

http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.gifThis year the summer seems to have been very short. I’ve just spent a week in the southern Rhône and the Languedoc, enjoying sunshine and warm temperatures. Back in Paris we have autumn weather. Is summer already over? This will be a very strange wine harvest and vintage. Where I was, in the south of France, most wine growers seemed very happy with the year so far – expecting a medium size but good harvest. But further north the situation is much more difficult. Much rain and cold weather with all the dangers and difficulties with diseases and uneven ripening that it will lead to.

If you are a wine grower you probably have to be a bit of an artist in doing all sorts of things. One of the growers we met in the Rhône valley had just opened a bed-and-breakfast (or chambres d’hôte as it’s called here); another was growing fruit in addition to the wine (and using the fruit cold storage to refrigerate the grapes if weather was hot during harvest). A third put a lot of effort into selling direct to the consumers at the door and sold more than half of his production in the winery shop – with correspondingly higher margins. Everything helps….

Wine points pointless?

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Wine tours

We’re working on the program for next season and you will soon find more information on it on the site. You can already get a sneak preview of the first trip of the year in 2008: a luxury tour with truffles, foie gras and wine. More info below.

Custom made trips, events, educational tours,...

I also do custom made tours – designed specifically to your requirements. If, for example, you’d like to take some people from your company on an exciting and unusual trip with (among other things perhaps) wine and gastronomy on the agenda. Or if you want to take a customer or a business partner on a special event. Or if you’re part of a wine tasting club that celebrates an anniversary. Or if you run a wine education program, perhaps you'd be interested in a specifically targeted educational trip. Or… I can organise the whole trip for you, custom designed as you wish, or I can do a specific event that can fit into a bigger organisation, e.g. a day trip to champagne to lighten up a conference in Paris, or a wine and gastronomy dinner… Give me a call or send me an email if you are interested to know more.

Britt

PS: Recommend to your friends to read the Brief or forward it to them !


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The EU court rules that internet sales of wine and spirits should be allowed into Sweden

>> Thursday, July 05, 2007

It has taken the EU court five years to finally rule on an intriguing issue regarding internet sales from the EU into Sweden. The Swedish government has always claimed that it is illegal for individuals to buy wine and spirit from other EU countries through the internet (or any other distance sale, e.g. mail order). Sweden has obtained an exception from EU rules that has allowed it too keep the monopoly on wine and spirits retail sales, through the government owned chain of shops "Systembolaget" - claiming that it is vital for the public health and for the good of the youth to keep the monopoly. (No doubt, the Swedish monopoly supporters can see how in the rest of Europe vast swathes of the population are alcoholics and the youth is entirely decadent.) (Interestingly, though, in spite of the monopoly, the government shops have less than 50% market share. The Swedes have a larger supply from restaurants, from travelling abroad, and from illegal imports and home brewing). As a consequence of this monopoly, the government has claimed, Swedes should not be allowed to buy wine and spirit from other EU countries.

In spite of the government claiming that internet sales were illegal several internet sites have appeared specifically targeting the Swedish market (usually with exceptionally poor selections, but cheap). The merchants claimed that it was against the EU principles of free movement of goods (which it is, but, you know, Sweden had this monopoly derogation). Several cases where people have bought online and had their goods confiscated at the border have gone to court. Some cases have gone along government lines whereas other court decisions have gone against the government. Undeterred, the customs officers have more and more tightened the control and have recently confiscated all parcels they have found.

One court case has gone to the supreme court. However, instead of taking a decision, the supreme court asked the EU court for advice on how the EU regulations should be interpreted - a normal procedure when country regulations seem contradictory to EU rules, but a procedure that takes time. It is this ruling from the EU court that has now been pronounced.

The conclusion is that the EU court considers that it is an unreasonable restriction for Sweden to limit such imports and that it does not serve the stated purpose of protecting the youth. The EU conclusion is therefore that Swedes should be allowed to buy wines and spirits over the internet. This was actually an unexpected decision since preliminary notes from the EU have indicated the opposite and a ruling late last year that said said that a Dutch resident who had bought duty paid wine in France and had it shipped to Holland would have to pay Dutch duties on it, in spite of it already having been taxed in France.

In the mean time, several of the companies involved in the business have closed down and at leas one has gone bankrupt, as a consequence of the government's previous (erroneous) interpretation of the rules. More comments in the IHT.

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Spittoon innovation

Spittoons are perhaps not what you put on your wish list for Christmas but they are very useful (well, essential) in many wine tastings. The French company Oenocom, who produces a clever, time-glass-shaped spittoon called Oenosablier, has just launched a new, smaller spittoon. It is smaller and lighter than their flagship Oenosablier, just 1 litre and made in Bordeaux coloured plastic. Easy to carry with you and does not take much space on a wine tasting table or a wine show stand. More info: http://www.oeno-com.com/

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Wine fair in Finland

On August 10 and 11 there will be a wine and gastronomy fair in Karleby in Finland. The theme is wine and food in combination. Visitors will be able to buy small portions of food (à 2 euro), prepared by the Professional Chef’s Association of the region. 13 wine importers will be there to present their wines to go with it. They will also have cheese presentations and on other gastronomic themes (e.g. by Aki Wahlman), tutored wine tastings, and presentation of other gastronomic specialities (e.g. from Rougie). We here that there are also a few spaces left for a additional wine importers to exhibit. More info: virpi-punkt-sorvisto-at-kolumbus-punkt-fi or vanhatullipakkahuone.com

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Richard Smart introduced into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame

The Australian viticultural researcher and consultant Richard Smart has been elected into the New Zealand Wine Hall of Fame. The nomination is based primarily on his work to improve vines and rootstocks after the Phylloxera invasion and for his work on canopy management.

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Abundant year for English vineyards

2006 was a very good harvest for England and Wales too. They produced in total 3,369,000 bottles, which is the third largest harvest since records began. The planted surface grew over the year from 793 hectares to 923 ha and 16 new vineyards were created, bringing the total to 362 wine producers in England and Wales. (A curious comparison with South Africa, who has 581 “wine cellars”. When will England+Wales overtake South Africa?)

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Vin de Pays d’Oc celebrates its 20th anniversary

Vin de Pays d’Oc was created in 1987 and there will be a big celebration at Vinexpo this summer. Some facts:

- VdP d’Oc is the biggest exporter of French wine, ahead of e.g. Bordeaux

- is also the biggest exporter of varietal wines (and totally dominant of the French production of “vins de cepage” making 90% of all varietals)

- is in fourth place internationally for varietals, after Australia, Chile and USA

- made 4.5 million hectolitres of wine in 2005

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Amber Ridge Vineyard in Sonoma sold to Nickel & Nickel

Meanwhile in California… Amber Ridge Vineyard is located in the Russian River district in Sonoma and covers 12 hectares. They grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah. Nickel & Nickel, a winery in Napa, recently paid $4.1 million for it (3 million euro). It’s the highest price ever paid for a vineyard in this area and computes to around $300,000 per hectare (240,000 euro/ha). winespectator.com

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Allegrini buys vineyards in Montalcino

The Veneto-based Italian wine producer Allegrini has just bought two vineyards in Montalcino in collaboration with their American importer: Poggio San Paolo and Montluc. They will merge the two vineyards under the name Poggio San Paolo. The total surface will be around 21 hectares. They mainly produce Brunello di Montalcino but also some Rosso di Montalcino and two “super Tuscans”. The price tag has not been made public but it is estimated to around 10 million euro. (The price per hectare in Montalcino is around 375,000 euro…) winespectator.com

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Wine points pointless?

>> Wednesday, July 04, 2007

You can read more on wine ratings in the article in the Wall Street Journal that you’ll find in the ‘link tips’ in another post. But the question certainly has a point. Yes, it can be interesting and “convenient” with wine ratings sometimes. But in many ways it is unfair and unjust to reduce a wine to a simple score. Because you can’t really rate a wine with a number. Read for example in the WSJ article about the wine that once had a top score in the Wine Spectator and a bit later only had a very moderate score. The same wine. What had happened? Nothing really. And you should certainly not blame the WS and say that they are incompetent wine judges. It’s just that you simply can “rate” (or taste) a wine differently at different occasions. On top of that, different persons have different tastes and appreciate different wines. Some like Burgundy and others like Amarone. Some like elegance others prefer structure. And Parker does not have the same taste as Jancis (Robinson) who does not have the same taste as (Hugh) Johnson who does not have the same taste as BKWine…

Another illustration: in a wine competition in south America the organisers decided one year that all members of the jury should come from England. No doubt a clever move to get some added international attention. But when the medal winning wines were announced they scratched their heads in South America. How could those wines win? Well, no doubt because the taste is different in South America and in England. (And in France, the US, Germany, Hong Kong, etc.)

So perhaps the best thing would be to scrap points ratings? But nevertheless, at BKWine we do use a rating system sometimes, albeit not often on these pages. But I encourage you to read the descriptions and comments rather than the point rating for a wine, and to not only buy top rated wines but also give the lowers ratings a chance – the “rater” may have had a bad day or may have a different taste than you. And best of all – don’t bother with what some “experts” say, taste the wines yourself and judge for yourself and you will discover many wonderful things in the wine world.

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Cognac with tea?!

http://www.bkwine.com/images/so-yang.jpgSo-Yang is a newly launched drink that is a blend of cognac and green tea. It was originally created by a French woman in her kitchen in Cognac. It is actually much better than what it might sound, I must admit. You serve it as a refreshing drink or aperitif, simply on some ice cubes. Light, refreshing and pleasingly aromatic. Actually a quite elegant mix of cognac and tea aromas, mixed with a hint of citrus and peaches. It’s just launched so you’ll have difficulties finding it in a shop near you (unless you http://www.bkwine.com/images/vote-2.giflive near Drugstore Publicis Etoile), but they’re looking for distributors internationally. so-yang.com

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Why do it the simple way when you can make it complicated

bf15-396-9615The Swedish monopoly retailer Systembolaget (who also likes to take on a particularly responsible attitude when it thinks that the citizens are not quite up to it) has a project to introduce level indicators on Bag-in-Box wines so that the consumer can see how much is left in the plastic bag inside the box. Unfortunately, as they note in their latest newsletter “the proposals that have so far been presented have all incurred a substantial cost for the packaging”, but they continue their quest. Perhaps they don’t think that the consumers are willing to pay a substantial premium to get the gauge on the box. Which seems entirely reasonable, considering that you can check the level by simply lifting the box and feel its weight. For no extra cost. But why choose a simple solution?...

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World’s best Syrah

The wine competition Syrah du Monde recently honoured 36 wines with the Gold Medal. Wines from all over the world participated in the competition. Here is the list of winning wines: syrah-du-monde.com

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The world’s most powerful brands

>> Tuesday, July 03, 2007

The magazine The Drinks Business makes a yearly review of the world’s most powerful brands, weighing in things like brand recognition as well as sales volumes. Here are this year’s top 10 brands.

- Smirnoff
- Bacardi
- Johnnie Walker
- Martini
- Stolichnaya
- Hennessy
- Absolut
- Jack Daniel’s
- Chivas Regal

And here’s “the wine list”, the list of the top ten wine brands (overall ranking in parenthesis)

- Gallo (17)
- Hardys (21)
- Concha y Toro (24)
- Robert Mondavi (36)
- Yellowtail (43)
- Jacob’s Creek (47)
- Lindemans (50)
- Sutter Home (56)
- Blossom Hill (65)
- Rosemount (80)

One can perhaps note that none of the wine brands originate in Europe, although Jacob’s Creek is owned by the French company Pernod Ricard.

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EU launches propaganda campaign for wine? Outside Europe...

Agricultural commissioner Mariann Fischer Boel will present the project for wine sector reform om July 4. One of the elements in the project is a proposal to invest substantial amounts in a marketing campaign to promote European wines. But only outside of Europe. Fischer Boel says that it may involve “very significant figures … people will be very surprised”. financialexpress-bd.com

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The world’s best sommelier is Swedish

bh10-453-5356Andreas Larsson recently won the title as the world’s best sommelier at the championship in Greece. His daily job (or perhaps nightly) is at the restaurant PM & Vänner (PM and Friends) in the small Swedish town of Växjö. www.matodryck.se

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Great uncertainty (and apprehension?) re. prices on Bordeaux primeurs

>> Monday, July 02, 2007

040330-2-71-0010What will happen with the prices on the primeur wines (“release prices”) from Bordeaux? Many people, both buyers and sellers, seem to look at it with a certain concern. And many chateaux seem reluctant to announce the prices. The prices will certainly be below those for the 2005 vintage that were extremely high. But how much lower? Some (Mr Parker among them) predict that it is a vintage that will not much interest the American market. For economic reasons and because fo the weak dollar. First to release the price was Léoville-Barton who announced a price that was certainly lower than for 2005 but still quite high according to some observers. Other chateaux seem to wait (hesitate?) with the prices… Is it the beginning of market reaction on the very high prices of recent years? We will see. Read more: decanter.com

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500 wineries in Washington

Sweet Valley Wines in Walla Walla claims to be the 500th winery in Washington State. The state has 31,000 acres of wine (13,000 hectares). Production has grown steadily from not more than 20 wineries in the 70s. winemag.com

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